The frilly gesture, referencing the artist's Purple Rain costume, was in stark contrast to the rest of the collection, which was otherwise defined by a relaxed silhouette more befitting an essential nomad than the ostentatious performer.

The collection featured muscle-revealing silk knitwear worn under long, trailing overcoats. Button-down shirts were worn long like tunics, and sweaters wrapped androgynously at the waist. Single-breasted suit jackets were hastily buttoned over loose trousers with an elasticized cuff.

The Versace empire bag was worn both cross-body, messenger-style and as a backpack, and footwear included sturdy sandals and technical sneakers.

The color palette was mostly a traveler's easy monochrome, including olive, blue, gray and sand -- and Prince's own purple.

The show was set to a soundtrack of music that Prince recorded as a gift to Versace five months ago. The designer said she wanted "to share this incredible music from a dear and much-missed friend."

BRAND FIRST

Canali has bidden farewell to its creative consultant of two years, Andrea Pompilio, putting the collection into the hands of an in-house team while it considers its next creative move.

Elisabetta Canali called the experience with Pompilio "very positive," but said "we don't want to link to someone specific. I think our DNA is very important."

The collection epitomized the relaxed looks that appeal to young consumers entering the luxury market. There was an aviator flare to bomber jackets worn with a scarf flung loosely around the neck. Double-breasted suit jackets in a kinetic black and white linen and wool weave known as "malafile" were paired with T-shirts, while shorts returned to the spring-summer Canali mix, worn with suit jackets or sweaters.

DSQUARED2 LOVES ROCK 'N ROLL

Rockers, Canada's designing twins Dean and Dan Caten, the forces behind the DSquared2 label, have the footwear for you: Prince-worthy high heeled boots available in any combination of sequins and glitter.

The ever-so glam boot was paired with jeans cropped perfectly to meet the leather upper mid-calf.

The looks were topped with sleeveless muscle shirts with sewn-on suspenders, shimmery striped lurex sweaters or jackets featuring checkerboard or chevron designs.

The twins wore long rainbow scarves to greet the crowd in a Fashion Eve event Friday evening, an apparent tribute to the Orlando shooting victims.

NEAPOLITAN LUXURY

In a twist, youthful customers come to the luxury Neapolitan brand Kiton for tailored looks while its older clients are looking for leisure wear.

Take the brand's fine knit jogging suits, meant for the ultimate jet-setters.

"Our clients wear this above all when riding in their private jets," CEO Antonio De Matteis said on a walk-through of the new collection during Milan Fashion Week.

Kiton won't reveal its client list, but De Matteis says it is more likely to include Silicon Valley entrepreneurs than bellicose billionaires.

Suits for the next warm weather season were kept relaxed for young clients, nearly deconstructed, and in soft fabrics. Colors feature blues to recall the sea by Naples.

Kiton strives to know its clients personally, meeting them at made-to-measure events around the globe, at private one-on-one dinners or visits to the company headquarters.

"We are lucky to get to know most of our clients personally," De Matteis said. "They come to Capri on vacation and then come visit our company."