The great King Roger II was a man with a most noble vision. He wanted to unite the peoples living in his country, bring peace and understanding, where all learnt about the richness of each other's culture, history and religion. The result of his enterprise was successful and we can still see it today emblazoned within the Cappella Palatina in Palermo. This brainchild of his, born in the distant year of l132 is a bijoux of unrivalled beauty, a sparkling place which every art or history fad should visit once in a lifetime.

Reading about the story of this place is nothing short of extraordinary. The fact that it is found shrouded within the Royal Palace, an Arab-Norman site of considerable wealth, adds to its allure. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. I overstretch my neck to see the artworks above my head, and mull over what the guide is saying. The reason behind the inception of this chapel somehow resounds the experience Europe is living in the here and now, as peoples merge and converge in an attempt to eke a livelihood amidst mutual respect and peaceful conviviality. As I wander around, oblivious of the small crowd around me, the story unfolds amidst gilt and stone, marble and mosaic, all meticulously man-made and handmade in dexterous skills long since abandoned. It effectively recounts the history of mankind in this part of the Mediterranean. The amazement of all this is resounded once again in similar but larger churches around this segment of Sicily, namely in Monreale and Cefalu which I am also pleased to be able to visit. But these are just a sampling of the wonders of this particular trip to Sicily.

Hopping on a direct and very short flight to Palermo, thanks to the national airline which has resumed direct flights from Malta and back, twice weekly, I am stunned. Stunned by the character of this rich and busy city, incidentally the largest in Sicily, so different from any other on this island, and yet so tangibly Sicilian. Large, sprawling, cosmopolitan and throbbing with energy other cities in Sicily would vie to enjoy.

This Palermo which reveals itself to me as I emerge from the balcony of its one and only five-star hotel - the opulent Grand Hotel Wagner, is a city full of busy sounds. Traffic, is frankly, not as disorderly as one might expect of a Sicilian city. And, there below on the street, the very Sicilian, typically suited and suave gentleman strolls by, leisurely walking a dog which does not do justice to his studiously put together image. With notebook under his arm, he is most definitely heading for 'il bar'. Where else? After all Palermo must start its day with an espresso.

And so I board a bus for a ride which takes me out of the city, heading towards Mondello. Those with a nose for good books will have heard of the Premio Letterario  Internazionale Mondello, popular since 1975. Those who are not in the least bit inclined towards literary pursuits, may have heard of Mondello's typical  Liberty styled and Art Nouveau properties which transformed what was originally a simple and humble fishing village into a luxury destination in the late 1800s. Its excessively long beach flanked by Mount Gallo and Mount Pellegrino, is the perfect backdrop for the 'Alle Terrazze' restaurant, a location set on something vaguely similar to Sliema's very own and now defunct 'chalet'. Feeling gloriously chic, one may sip fine wine, savour frivolous nibbles and bask in the evening breeze on a calm summer's evening. As romantically inclined couples toast themselves,  and after the perfunctory selfies, I walk out and prepare to head back to Palermo inner city.

I realise that I find myself in Palermo just days away from a concert due to be held at Teatro Massimo which will see Ignazio Schifani conducting the Teatro Massimo Orchestra as they perform music by my all-time favourite classical composer - Johann Sebastian Bach. With no chance of actually being there for such a wonderful performance, I don't have time to sulk, as I get the opportunity of actually touring the theatre as a guest rather than a visitor.

This is a sampling of parts of the different typical theatre guided tours and for one unforgettable solid half hour, I am shown around, even being treated to a refreshing aperitivo at the end. I am fortunate - there is an orchestral rehearsal and I am allowed to sit in the theatre, watch and listen, as long as I keep the silence. The tour takes me upstairs to the royal box where I can listen and view even better.

The most enticing experience of the entire tour is a visit to the Echo Room where perfect acoustics are impressive, to say the least. The theatre itself does not require the use of microphone equipment as its acoustics are excellent throughout. Such an honour to have seen this edifice, the largest theatre in Italy, designed by Giovan Battista Filippo Basile and overseen by himself and later by his son Ernesto. The theatre provides varied tours which are all highly enlightening as to the character of the now forgotten Belle Epoque.

I emerge onto Via Maqueda, wise, sunny, shady, busy, pedestrian. I could buy myself an ice cream from the shop opposite, but I take pictures instead. I could stroll up this road but stop short as I admire an elderly Japanese artist sitting in the shade of a tree, carelessly water-colouring a small canvas, imprinting the moment, the light and the feel of this place.

This Palermo with its small and large shops, its stalls, markets, and chic restaurants, the likes of Il Ghiottone Raffinato, Gigi Mangia and Lo Scudiero which offer refined dining to savour Sicily in style. What else is there to say? One must take the opportunity of visiting Palermo, staying for a few days and getting it under one's skin. It will be fully worth your time.

 

 

Air Malta began scheduled services between Malta and Palermo this month.  The flight schedule operates as follows: Monday departure Malta 1.15pm arrival Palermo 2.15pm, departure Palermo 3.05pm arrival Malta 3.55pm; Thursday departure Malta 7.50pm arrival Palermo 8.50pm, departure Palermo 9.40pm arrival Malta 10.30pm.