My old friend Leyla invited me to dine with her at Shafa restaurant in Xemxija. I had never heard of it and looked forward to sampling its fare. I love anything exotic and Shafa serves Persian food which is not entirely new to me. Another old Swiss friend of mine in Mauritius who has now passed away, had lived in Iran for many years (we often wondered if she had been a spy!)  and occasionally cooked 'Persian' for our girls' lunches. Her dishes were invariably delicious and looked and tasted exotic. Saffron rice was almost always present and she used many herbs, pomegranate,  yoghurt and different kinds of bean. Then there were pistachios, almonds and oranges - often just the rind. I have one or two of her recipes in my recipes folder and keep on meaning to have a go at them. After the excellent meal at Shafa I really must.

Now Leyla and her late husband have lived in Malta for many years. She quietly started the Soroptimists, an organization for professional women. This was a couple who are great believers in world peace and practice what they preach quietly.  They are all action and few words.

***************

So Leyla and myself set off for Xemxija where I had not been for many years, never having a reason to go there.

I remember going to Maria Ganado's and Louis Grech's engagement in Maria's parents summer house in St Paul's bay, just below,  all those years ago when there were just a few houses and it really was a getting-away-from-it-all place.

****************

When we got to Xemxija I was truly astonished at the number of flats which had been built over the years. Yes, I am still capable of surprise at the over development of these islands. Who wants to live in places like Xemxija which is so overbuilt and unattractive? Tourists in search of the sea and sun I suppose. And Maltese who want to get away from even more crowded towns.

********************

I found Shafa Restaurant to be an oasis. There are a few tables on the terrace outside but we chose a table inside where there is plenty of ambience: exotic table runners, silk Persian carpets hanging on the walls ­- the owner Farhad has had a business dealing in Persian carpets for many years and - plants. Shafa is warm and welcoming. They provided visual diversion and an almost cosy atmosphere. I do not like one little bit these glass and steel interiors which are so loved by my daughters' generation.

*********************

As a starter Leyla recommended the Kashk-e Bademjan. I could barely pronounce it but she assured me it is a light dish.

I love anything with aubergines in it. This dish consisted of baked, crushed, aubergine slow cooked with seasoned yogurt and sprinkled with crushed walnuts, sautéed chopped mint and Kashk which is the traditional Persian preserved yoghurt whey. It was delicious and suitably light, as a starter should be.

*****************

The  main course was Fesenjan, a pomegranate walnut stew. This again was recommended by Leyla who was familiar with Persian food and the menu at Shafa.
This iconic stew, an essential part of every Persian wedding menu, pairs pomegranate with chicken or duck. We had chicken.

Ground walnuts, pomegranate paste and onions are slowly simmered to make a thick sauce. Sometimes saffron and cinnamon are added, and maybe a pinch of sugar to balance the acid. Fesenjan has a long pedigree Farhad told us. At the ruins of Persepolis, the ancient ritual capital of the Persian Empire, archaeologists found inscribed stone tablets from as far back as 515 B.C., which listed pantry staples of the early Iranians. They included walnuts, poultry and pomegranate preserves, the key ingredients in Fesenjan and all still used today in Persian food.

************

Mohammad the chef also did a quick round of the tables to make sure that everyone was happy. He had worked for many years with a very well known chain of restaurants - I have forgotten the name - and loves what he is doing.

************

 

 Our Fesenjan was served with steamed saffron rice and a mixed salad.

I cannot remember what our dessert was called. Leyla recommended another dessert she had eaten before but there was none left. So we had rice pudding with rose water, saffron, almonds and cinnamon. Since for some reason or another I have an aversion to cinnamon I cannot say that I enjoyed this. But usually there are other home made desserts on the menu I was assured.

**********

There is, as you can imagine, a choice of kebabs: chicken, lamb, fillet of beef and even a kebab for vegans made of grilled seasoned vegetables. Next time round I would like to try one of the kebabs and also one of the speciality rice dishes. They sound divine.

Tea lovers will find a tea bar with a choice of 40 types of loose leaf tea - no teabags here.

****************

At Shafa there is no wine list. Alcohol is not served at all but you can bring your own bottle and happily for those who cannot survive a meal without beer or wine there is no corkage fee.

I had no intention of lifting my self-imposed wine ban which had lasted for two months, to make up for the many ice creams I have been devouring, ostensibly to keep cool.

 But once on holiday abroad I lifted it as it seemed rude to be invited to dinner and simply drink water. After all wine does make you feel merrier and perkier as long as you drink no more than you should. Abroad everyone is very cautious about drinking over the limit if they are driving for they know they will find yourselves in trouble. You have to have a head as clear as an alpine stream to drive. I hope the same punishment will be meted out to those who drink over the limit and are a danger on the road here. Twenty-two deaths on our roads last year - it is horrendous.

***************

So our car sped into the warm summer night. By the light of the silvery moon even Xemxija looks rather attractive. But my thoughts were on the food I had just enjoyed at Malta's first Persian restaurant and not on our over built environment. That had to wait for the morrow.

[email protected]