Salvatore Ferragamo energized Milan's Piazza Affari with an open-air runway show on Saturday night, a sign of freshness and openness as womenswear design director Fulvio Rigoni previewed his third collection.
Models walked on a Plexiglas runway over a fresh lawn of real grass sprinkled with plastic daisies. The fashion crowd was treated to a Botticelli-inspired light show on the façade of Milan's stock exchange building before being invited inside to party with the British band "Clean Bandit."
The celebratory atmosphere was all meant as an antidote to trying political times, the designer said.
"I wanted to create positive feelings at this particular moment," Rigoni said. "At least in fashion, we want to dream a little."
FERRAGAMO'S HANDKERCHIEF TRICKS
The foulard was the star of Rigoni's collection for Ferragamo.
Twisted for dramatic effect, they became the straps on halter dresses or oversized stitching on an off-the-shoulder dress, with the length of the silken scarf trailing. And dramatically, Rigoni created trompe l'oeil prints that gave the illusion of draped foulards on simple, straight dresses.
Rigoni said he imagined how he would dress Salvatore Ferragamo's iconic clients, taking inspiration from Greta Garbo, Carmen Miranda, Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe to create straight silhouettes from the 1920s, fringe detailing from the 1930s and flared trousers from the 1970s.
The Ferragamo rounded gancio, or clasp, was a motif throughout, as an anchor for scarfs, a handle on mini-bags and even a pocket detail. Laser perforations on suede dresses and coats had the feel of crochet, while hand-painted python boots and coats underlined the brand's technical prowess. Colors included bright pink, emerald green, red and plum punctuated by neutrals.
"I wanted a relaxed vibe and an easiness that is perceptible and refreshing," Rigoni said. "The collection is fresh because there is a casualness, even if it is very studied."
FIGHTING GODDESSES AT STELLA JEAN
The fierce Cholitas Luchadoras female wresters of Bolivia inspired Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean's latest collection, which combines elements of the Cholitas traditional costume with Western tailoring and sportswear.
Jean said she was impressed by the way the Cholitas, who were spurned for their traditional colorful dresses, defied the discrimination by becoming professional wrestlers.
"They claimed their independence with true sport," Jean said. "It is incredible because they fight in their typical clothes. Now they are considered goddesses."
Jean's Cholitas wear white peasant dresses with embroidery details layered with bowling shirts, or full skirts and men's shirts with a wrestler's body overtop. Wrestling capes were emblazoned with "Stella Jean Wrestling Team," and the looks were finished with tall Peruvian hats.
MILA SCHOEN DRAPING
Alessandro De Benedetti next-season creations for Mila Schoen have a clarity of line that defies the craft behind them.
In keeping with the brand's identity, De Benedetti concealed the closures on his looks. But he went even one step further, creating elegant, ankle-length dresses by simply - or not so simply - draping fabric, up to seven meters of it for each dress.
De Benedetti said Kim Novak was one of his inspirations, and he dubbed one of his creations, a sleek suit with a dizzying optical effect, "Vertigo," after the Alfred Hitchcock movie in which she starred.