The Malta Independent 20 April 2024, Saturday
View E-Paper

FIRST: Valletta's overlooked gems - some intriguing places in the capital city streets

First Magazine Saturday, 24 February 2018, 10:40 Last update: about 7 years ago

Over the years, Valletta has been evolving and adapting to attract increasing numbers of visitors. Whilst some establishments are temporary, attempting to attract the fleeting attention of customers, others have withstood the test of time and stayed with what they know best. Laura Schembri visited some of these places – which are interspersed, sometimes hidden, within Valletta’s streets. Some are quirky, some are unconventional, but they all contribute to the city’s character. Photography by Joanna Demarco.

Prego

Prego is a coffee shop frozen in time, where locals have been enjoying their simple black coffees and fresh sandwiches since 1964. This family-run business was the first place to purchase a coffee machine from overseas and retains a steady clientele by sticking with what works.

Giorgio Bezzina, the son of the original owner, has now taken over the running of the premises and remains faithful to his father's simple and minimalist principals. Although the coffee shop does not reflect the change Valletta itself has undergone, Bezzina notes that the resurging interest in our capital city has brought a new wave of customers, making it possible for his business to continue to thrive.

Almost as iconic as Prego's timeless interiors are the two other workers, Joe Borg and Carmello Spiteri who, along with Bezzina, have become staples of the shop in their own right, working for the family for over 20 years. Grab a seat at a table and experience the dynamic trio in action at Prego over a great cup of coffee.

 

Toy Museum

The toy museum is a delightful, doll-sized house, filled with forgotten gems from a bygone era. Vincent Brown first opened the doors to his whimsical time machine in 1998, after being inspired by a similar museum in England. Spread over three floors, the magical museum gives its visitors a peek into the past, with its impressive collection of toys such as Matchbox model cars, model planes and dolls - the oldest of which is a wooden Pinocchio dating from 1883. Today, the museum remains a big attraction to which both tourists and locals flock to enjoy a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

 

Peter Spiteri - Mug Collector

Peter Spiteri is an ordinary man with an extraordinary passion. Following a back injury that caused him to be bedridden for seven months, Peter was left feeling unmotivated and helpless. He found his lifeline in his mug collection, through which he was able to regain the key to his happiness. His garage houses an impressive collection of around 3,000 mugs and for over 25 years, visitors have been coming to see the spectacular floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with mugs, cans and water jugs. However, out of all his collection, his favourite mugs remain those given to him by his grandchildren. Every day, from 9 am till 1 pm, visitors are invited to view this heart-warming collection at the far end of Republic Street and talk to the man behind it all.

Agius Joe Undertaker

Valletta's West Street is home to the 300-year-old family business known as 'Agius Joe Undertaker, Coffin Maker, Army, Navy and Civilian Contractors'. Withstanding the pressures of an evolving Valletta, this quaint place gives no indication that we are in the 21st century, but the business is no stranger to change. The loss of the late Joe Agius seven years ago, forced the family to revamp their business model. No longer able to rely on Joe's craftsmanship to make the coffins, the business now imports them from overseas. The horse-drawn hearses have suffered a similar fate at the hands of time and have been replaced by a hearse and taxi service. The establishment has cemented its status, and with four funeral services every week, the business certainly shows no sign of slowing down.

John Camilleri Fishing Tackle

The understated charm of John Camilleri Fishing Tackle has been capturing customers' hearts for more than 100 years. Walking down Strait Street, the old shop façade - painted in the same pastel yellow with which it has been embellished for the past 30 years - is bound to catch your eye.

Standing out in a sea of modern stores, John Camilleri Fishing Tackle refuses to conform - what you see is what you get. This authenticity has enabled the business to retain its loyal clientele, but it has struggled to attract a new generation of customers. Peter, the last remaining member of the family to run the business, has accepted that it may be time to close this particular chapter, making way for a new one to grace Valletta.

 


  • don't miss