DAVID CARABOTT takes us on a journey to Corfu ... read on, enjoy the journey and find out if trekking in the Mediterranean is for you too
The world is a book, and those who do not travel, read only a page. (Saint Augustine)
How true. We are the author of our own book of life. All our experiences about what we have seen, felt and touched make us more complete persons, cleverer and quicker to understand more planet earth.
Greece’s Emerald: Corfu
The Greek island of Corfu (Greek: Kerkyra) where I spent my summer holidays certainly helped me write a very interesting chapter of my own life. Do you like Greek food, sunbathing or swimming on the beach and getting to know interesting places? Then you must go to Corfu. Countless people fell in love with the island, amongst them some well known ones: the brothers Gerald and Lawrence Durrell, the British poet and leading figure in Romanticism Lord Byron and the Empress of Austria Elisabeth and Queen of Hungary known as Sissy. They surely admired Corfu’s unique countryside, mountains, different kinds of flowers, wildlife ... as for me , I will never forgot the view from the top of the island’s highest mountain Mount Pantokrator (908m), from where I could see the whole island. The experience of that view will stay in my mind forever.
The lush green island of Corfu is situated in the northwest coast of mainland Greece, at a point where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. It is the closet Greek island to Italy and almost brushes against Albania to the north. Corfu is one of the seven main Ionian Islands which are located off the west coast of Greece.
To tell you the truth I never planned to visit Corfu. I was invited to embark on this venture by a leading Maltese girl-guide. She is an expert on Mediterranean islands and all that has to do with the natural world. She helped me understand each and every flower we came across and appreciate even each and every little insect.
We travelled by bus to reach the Corfu trails, then we walked for around ten hours daily. It was quite exhausting. Doing ‘real’ trekking for the very first time, under the scorching Greek summer sun isn’t that easy. However, we felt marvelous each and every time we immersed ourselves in one of the Corfu trails: lost in the wild. The island seems deserted; you hardly meet any people for hours except for trekkers and local farmers and shepherds. All you can spot is wildlife, beaches and all around you everything is blue and green. Mountains and sweeping hillsides covered by silvery olive trees and majestic cypress trees dominate the island. There are flashes of colour at every roadside. The countryside is covered with wildflowers and beautiful aromas fill the air. The rambling bougainvillea and geraniums characterize the traditional village houses and town balconies. In autumn when grapes, nuts and fruit in orchards ripen, the island becomes a shimmering sea of purple and gold.
The Corfu Trail
The Trail presents the walkers with the opportunity to experience the ‘Real Corfu. It is way marked by small yellow signs with the mark CT on them. Between signs there are yellow paint marks and arrows to confirm you are ‘on track’, although these are kept to a minimum to avoid interfering with the natural environment.
The trail is marked well and can be followed in either direction. We were advised beforehand to walk the trail from south to north. Firstly, because the landscape in the southern section of the island is gentle compared with the mountainous north and so the hiker will build stamina by starting from the easier treks, walking himself into fitness to be able to tackle the more difficult treks. Secondly, because the scenic highlights and most interesting sites lie in the centre and north, so that each day on the trail surpasses the previous one! It was a week that surpassed all my expectation. What a stunning holiday – one of the best ever. The guide book of the Corfu Trail was brilliant and the well-marked trail challenging - but we did it.
My Trekking experiences in Corfu
Trek 1: Kerkyra Town. The town has a unique architecture influenced by the many centuries of dominations, such as the Sicilian, the Venetian, the French and the British. It was the easiest trek. Going around in the capital city was an effortless task. The Corfiots were very helpful indeed even though the language barrier many times was an obstacle.
Trek 2: Southwest. Transfer to Linia where we started walking: Through olive groves and bushes we climb hills and walk along the cliffs. Near the peak, in the middle of orchards stand several abandoned monasteries. Places to see include Issos, Lake Korisson, Chalikoumas, Kardiki fort and Mesonghi. Walking between sea and lagoon and on olive-planted hills we reached the medieval fortress of Gardiki and walked for endless hours to reach the sandy beaches.
Trek 3: Centre west: Glyfada, Mirtiotissa, Ag.Georgios, Vatos, Ropa Plain. Here nature is to be discovered on foot and is a real must for walkers and trekkers. Friendly villages, abandoned manor houses and monasteries wait to be visited and rediscovered. Tourism is mainly restricted to the coastal areas; behind the coastal belt time stands still, and astonishing landscapes welcome the pedestrian visitor.
Trek 4: By boat to the neighbourring islets of Paxos and Antipaxos situated in the south of Corfu. Places to visit include Gaios, Vellianitatika, Mouzmouli Cliffs, Tripitos Arch, Ozias. Paxos renowned for it’s turquoise, transparent water, olive trees and cypresses spreading all the way to the sea, a picturesque main village on a deep creek with a small monastery. Antipaxos is also known for its beautiful sandy beaches, crystal clear waters, and stunning scenic countryside which is verdant and flourishing with greenery and nature.
Trek 5: On Ulysses’ steps. Excursion in the Northwest part of the island. We travelled to Palaeokastritsa by bus. Once there we started walking through olive trees and cypresses to the villages of Lakones and Krini and then to the impressive medieval fortress of Angelokastro, 300m above sea level. We went for a swim while enjoying sunset.
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Day 6: Climb on Mount Pantokrator, the highest mountain, in the Northeastern part of the island. First we went through the picturesque village, and then we climbed on a path with panoramic view on slopes covered with shrubs, past a ruined monastery and through a laurel-forest to the rocky plateau of Pantokrator. Finally we reached the summit, 911m above sea level, where stands an aerial-forest and an uninhabited monastery. Not to be missed is the panoramic view of the Greek and Albanian mountains and the magnificent coastline.
Trek 7: Sissy’s summer residence: Achillion. The Palace, located in the village of Gastouri, was erected in 1890 for Elizabeth (Sissy), the Empress of Austria as the solace of her soul. It was used as her summer retreat. This beautiful building in picturesque gardens overlooks the sea and Corfu town. In the nineteenth century the island was a favorite destination of sun seeking people, even royalties.
Seven interesting facts:
The legendary Greek hero Odysseus (known to the Romans as Ulysses) was said to have been shipwrecked at ‘Ermones Bay’ on the islands western coast. The shipwreck was saved from Poseidon’s anger and the force of the elements in a sheltered creek surrounded by high cliffs, and a princess took care and provided the ship for his trip back to Ithaca.
Corfu was once home to world famous author and naturalist Gerald Durrell and the setting for his famous book which I recommend you to read before you decide to visit Corfu – ‘My Family and Other Animals: Birds - “My childhood in Corfu shaped my life. If I had the craft of Merlin, I would give every child the gift of my childhood.” ~ Gerald Durrell.
Populations of the Maltese islands is four times as much as that of Corfu, even though the Greek island is almost twice as big as the Maltese islands. The Corfiot Maltese community at present consists of about 3,500 people. However no one among them speaks Maltese anymore. The mayor of Corfu Town is Sotirios Micallef (2007-present) of Maltese descent.
Sir Thomas Maitland High Commissioner for Corfu brought to the Ionian island the Globigerina limestone, (in Maltese ‘Tal-Franka’) since he had been governor here. Besides 80 people (40 families from 1815 until 1860) were transported to Corfu. Only married skilled workers were needed so that their work would be continued by their children.
Two villages in Corfu derive from Maltese connections: Maltezika is named after Malta and Cozzella got its name from Gozo. In Cozzella the Franciscan Sisters of Malta opened a convent and a school in 1907. They are still open today.
The majority of Corfiots are Greek Orthodox. There is however a percentage of Catholics (4%) who owe their faith to their origins, mostly families who came from Malta, but also from Italy and England.
Ok enough of the Geography and History lesson…If you want to find out more about our Mediterranean trekking ventures let us know by emailing me on: davecarb@onvol.net
