The Malta Independent 15 August 2026, Saturday
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‘Vacanze Romane’

Malta Independent Monday, 15 October 2007, 00:00 Last update: about 15 years ago

Having spent the whole year getting excited about it, it was finally time. My Roman experience was about to begin, along with that of another 11 Maltese students.

Why? We are all taking part in an EU mobility programme called Erasmus, which allows students to study in a choice of European universities for a period of time. Having fallen in love with Rome the first time I visited it and having remained in love ever since, it was my obvious choice.

We arrived with a bang. My three flatmates and I had booked an apartment in a very small, quaint street just off Via del Tritone. The street is so narrow that when our taxi stopped in front of our apartment, it blocked the entire street and we actually had problems getting out of the car because there was no space between it and the walls of the street.

This experience ensured that we got to know all our neighbours as well as a few irate passers-by within a few moments from our arrival.

Rome must be one of the most versatile cities in the world. Whatever you are after, you’ll find it in Rome. The city of Vespas, fashion, fountains, gelaterie, carciofi and so much more, it combines a deep-seated history with a very modern and hip culture. Entertainment varies from sitting at a café drinking espresso while eating a freshly-baked chocolate cornetto to going to the hottest club in town, going to the opera, or simply walking along its numerous vie which inevitably turns into a sightseeing tour.

Intending to immerse myself in all that is Roman, I start to look around straightaway after my arrival, pausing only to drop off my luggage and glance fleetingly at the apartment.

Piazza Barberini

Piazza Barberini is located at the top part of Via del Tritone and therefore very close to where I am living. Because of this it was the first place I decided to revisit.

Today Piazza Barberini is one of the busiest centres in Rome; it is home to the famous Triton fountain, which is a masterpiece of Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598-1680) in honour of Pope Urbanus VIII (Maffeo Barberini 1568-1644, hence the name of the piazza). The fountain depicts four dolphins supporting an open scallop shell on top of which there is a kneeling triton blowing water through a shell held up in his hands. Until the 18th Century, the bodies of unknown soldiers were displayed near this fountain, waiting for someone to recognise them.

Another Bernini fountain adorns the piazza: the Fontana delle Api. Bees were a symbol of the Barberini and it is for this reason that Bernini built this fountain; bees also decorate the bottom of the Triton fountain.

Via delle Quattro Fontane

Via delle Quattro Fontane is located very close to Piazza Barberini and was therefore my next stop. This road derives its name from the four fountains that adorn it – three of which were built by Domenico Fontana (no pun intended!) and the fourth built by Pietro da Cortona. These statues were built during the pontificate of Pope Sixtus V and represent two rivers – the Arno and the Tiber – and the goddesses Diana and Juno.

Round the corner from the statue representing the Arno, i.e. in Via del Quirinale, there is San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane Church, dedicated to San Carlo Borromeo who was an Archbishop of Milan. The Romans often refer to it as “San Carlino” (the small Carlo) on account of its small size. Despite being small in size, it is definitely big in fame. This church was the first church Francesco Borromini (1559-1667) built in Rome and is considered to be a masterpiece of Roman Baroque.

Fontana di Trevi

Made even more famous in Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1960), the Trevi Fountain is one of the most notable landmarks in Rome. It was built between 1732 and 1762, according to a project by Nicola Salvi and is known for its dynamic movement of water which may be heard from nearby streets.

Now it is a major tourist hotspot meaning that it is also a known location for pick pocketing and for harassment by the infamous vu cumpra’. Among their wares are these highly annoying gadgets which they spin into the air and attempt to catch again once they fall. Others also seize the moment to try to sell roses or to take photos which they then try to sell to their poor victims. But entrepre-neurial they definitely are: come a single drop of rain and they whip out a batch of umbrellas to sell; on New Year’s Eve they swarm the city selling bottles of champagne.

Teatro Marcello

This famous theatre is located just round the corner from Piazza Venezia, in Via del Teatro Marcello. Still used occasionally for classical concerts, construction of the Theatre of Marcellus was started by Julius Caesar and completed by Augustus who is known to have said “I found Rome of clay; I leave it to you of marble.” Augustus named this theatre after his favourite nephew, Marcellus.

This beautiful example of Roman ruins may be visited during the day free of charge.

Isola Tiburina

I wanted to be able to say that I have seen all the islands in Rome within my first few days so I went to see the Tiber Island – the only island in Rome! I approached it from Ponte Fabricio - the oldest bridge still existing in Rome. In the Middle Ages it was called “Pons Judeurum” (Jewish bridge) because of its proximity to the Jewish Ghetto.

It is also known as the Ponte Quattro Capi on account of the two four-headed Janus herms on the parapet. Legend had it that the four architects who restored the bridge often argued while working on the bridge, which led to scandals. When the restoration was finished, Pope Sixtus V ordered their beheading on account of their unworthy professional behaviour. Yet he then ordered the four busts to be made in their image and placed on the parapet of the bridge – the four-headed Janus – as a remaining memory of them.

This explains why Janus has four heads on the Ponte Fabricio when most often, he has two. Another explanation for this could be that he was at times depicted with four heads in cases where he was guarding very important locations.

Portico d’Ottavia

This was constructed in 146BC and named after its builder, Octavius. The portico enclosed temples dedicated to Jupiter and Juno, and the entrance was decorated with statues of gods.

Augustus had the portico rebuilt in 23BC, retaining the name in honour of his sister Octavia; she was the wife abandoned by Mark Anthony for Cleopatra.

An ancient Roman ruin, this later served as the cut-off point for the Jewish Ghetto in Rome and is in fact what springs to most people’s minds when one mentions the Ghetto.

Jewish Ghetto

In 1555, Pope Paul IV segregated all the Jews in Rome to a portion of land which became known as the Jewish Ghetto. High walls were built and Jews were made to obey a strict curfew. In 1870, with the unification of Italy under King Victor Emanuel, the ghettos were dismantled and Jews were given full citizenship. Trouble was once more in store for them during World War II due to the Italian-German cooperation.

This is all history, with Jews now having integrated well in the Roman community. Yet a remnant of the hostilities is still evident since, as my guidebook warned me, some streets in very close proximity with the Syna-gogue are subject to strict security rules and are sealed off during Jewish high holy days. Furthermore, people are not allowed to take photos around the Synagogue area and non-observance of this rule may lead to being taken away for questioning by the police.

Red Bull Flutag

(‘Un giorno con le ali’)

The Flugtag has become a well-known event, famed especially for the absurdity and ludicrousness it brings with it. The aim of the game is to launch off a ramp with manpowered apparatus trying to ‘fly’ for as long a distance as possible, soon falling into the lake below. Teams are then awarded for the distance they accomplish in mid-air, for their creativity in creating the apparatus and also for the best performance given on stage in the 30-second slot they are given for this purpose, prior to the launch.

Strict rules exist with regard to the wingspan of the construction, its weight, its floatability and the fact that all the energy used must be ‘human’. Teams may have a maximum of five members (including one pilot).

It took place in Rome along the Laghetto Eur in scorching heat made bearable only by the few raindrops which dissolved in the heat before touching ground. The teams hailed from various different places in Italy – the only non-Italian team was the Maltese one – The Flying Knights.

Despite not standing out in their performance with regard to the distance they accomplished, they definitely stood out because of their on-stage 30-second show. Dressed as knights and carrying their flying machine in the shape of a tower brandishing the eight-pointed cross, they treated the audience to a 30-second striptease complete with choreographed dance to the tune of ‘Hot Stuff’.

To continue with the flying theme, the show also included some remarkable parac-huting stunts from vertiginous heights forcing all the onlookers to crane their necks risking severe muscle pain for days to come just to be able to observe the spectacle taking place up high.

‘A presto…’

A week into the Roman experience it already feels a lot like home. Having a passion for all things Roman, from Roman history, shops, food to Roman people surely helps. But I do believe that the Eternal City has something to offer for absolutely everyone. Having merely sprinted through the city so far, I look forward to exploring it better in the following months.

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