Natale con i tuoi; Capo d’Anno con chi vuoi – Christmas is the time which makes me feel the need to be surrounded by family. Although Rome has become my second home, there is nothing like going back to Malta for a period as special as Christmas. But before I left for my Maltese holiday I wanted to absorb as much of the Roman Christmas spirit as I could, as well as re-visit a few popular haunts.
Having already spent some of the Christmas season in Rome last year, I knew exactly what to expect. Via dei Condotti, classically elegant as always, was decorated with simple but effective bell-shaped structures constructed out of silver lights. Campanile, popular for high-quality shoes and bags, is at the moment the centre of attraction because of the original way it has been decorated for the season. Similarly, Fendi, just off Via dei Condotti, stood out with an imposing and timeless elegance.
Yet the area around Piazza di Spagna is not the only area to have been decorated; a large Christmas tree has been erected next to the Colosseum. Although the tree itself is simple and, to be honest, leaning ever so slightly to the side, using the Colosseum as a backdrop inspires a certain grandeur while creating an indelible Roman watermark.
Also, in Piazza Navona there is a small Christmas fair, adding much atmosphere to an already-vibrant piazza. Strolling around the fair one can see a variety of man-made crib figurines – some mechanical, sweets of all sorts and other Christmas-related items. The overwhelming presence of Befana-themed items ensure that one does not forget that one is in Italy.
Castel Sant’Angelo (photo)
Castel Sant’Angelo was originally commissioned by Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family, and it retained this function until circa 403BC when this magnificent structure was converted into a military fortress and Flavius Augustus Honorius ordered its inclusion within the Aurelian walls.
Pope Nicholas III connected the castle to St Peter’s Basilica by means of a covered fortified corridor called the Passetto di Borgo.
It is interesting to note that the papal state also used Castel Sant’Angelo as a prison, and executions also used to be carried out within its walls.
The castle is now a museum housing various works of art, a number of exhibitions and providing one of the most spectacular views of the river Tiber and some of the bridges that cross it.
Castel Sant’Angelo appears in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons – in the thriller, it was the secret lair for the Hassassin (the Killer).
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta
It is remarkable how, despite our countries being located relatively closely on the map, many Romans do not actually know where Malta is and they know even less about who we are and what we do. Yet most have actually heard of the Cavalieri di Malta, and a couple of them have gone as far as translating it for me into the ‘Riders of Malta’ to show me that they really knew what they were on about. This obviously did not produce the desired effect but it did amuse me very much.
In any case, with a feeling of patriotism, I made my way to the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta in Aventino, designed by Giovanni Battista Piranesi (1720-1778) – a tourist attraction definitely, but perhaps even more attractive for the Maltese.
The piazza itself is embellished with a number of magnificent trophies and obelisks – a beautiful sight – yet the real jewel in the crown is the surprise one gets when looking through the keyhole of the priory. The keyhole is fitted with a magnifying glass so that one is able to see the symmetrical line of trees which line the sides framing a magnificent view of the dome of St Peter’s Basilica in the distance.
Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese is the second largest park in Rome – the largest is Villa Doria Pamphili. Villa Borghese connects Porta Pinciana with Piazzale Flaminio, and what I like best about it is that it comprises so many different things. Not only does it have the customary open spaces, it also has various sculptures, monuments, fountains, a gallery, museums, a picturesque lake and a water clock. An electric bus service (number 116) is also available around the park, thus facilitating access from one part of the park to another.
Ligalive – Speciale Ellesette
Luciano Ligabue put up a number of concerts in Rome in November and in Milan in December. I was always quite a fan of his classics like Certe Notti and Piccola Stella Senza Cielo, but previously my knowledge of his music did not extend much further than that. However, there was quite a lot of hype surrounding this tour so I decided to grab the opportunity and watch Ligabue live in Rome, at the Palalottomatica. And now, after having gone to this concert, I have been fully converted; it exceeded all my expectations – Ligabue is not only a great musician; he can also give a great show with much energy and vibe. And, to make it all the more interesting, he has a great social conscience which he chose to inform us about at various stages during the show.
Roma-Manchester United
This much-anticipated Champions League game was on 12 December at the Stadio Olimpico. Following last year’s embarrassing 7-1 Roma defeat at Old Trafford in the quarter-final stages, there was quite a build-up for this game. This, until the fixtures got to a point whereby Roma and Manchester United had both qualified from their group, therefore the result of this game could have no bearing upon their qualification. This meant that the anticipation for this game was somewhat subdued however this did not deter some supporters from engaging in violent acts which resulted in five Manchester United fans being stabbed close to the stadium before the game. At the end of the day, the result was a neutral 1-1.
Buone Feste a Tutti!
With high spirits I leave the Roman sunshine to find, with a strange twist of fate, the Maltese rain! Yet more importantly, I find family and much Christmas cheer – at this point, no amount of rain could possibly dampen my enthusiasm!