The Malta Independent 29 August 2026, Saturday
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The Life And Times of Marie Benoit

Malta Independent Sunday, 27 January 2008, 00:00 Last update: about 13 years ago

There are times when one wants to get out of the house and simply let somebody else do the cooking. This happens to me particularly when the girls are here and we need to spend the time we have bonding rather than in the kitchen. In such circumstances, it isn’t luxury or glamour that one is seeking but somewhere that offers a decently cooked meal in congenial surroundings; meal which is a reasonable deal. So a restaurant that is a pleasure to sit in, offers enjoyable and interesting cooking, looks after its guests and does not charge them too much is what you are seeking. The Tana del Lupo in Paceville is one such haunt and the Trattoria Palazz in Valletta another.

Chef Patron Maria Borg invited four hacks and hackettes to sample a special meal last week accompanied by MonteKristo’s Falcon Ridge wines. There was Julia Farrugia and myself and photographer Charles March and the deputy editor of L-Orizzont, Josef Caruana. We had a great deal in common so the eating and the drinking were extra pleasant.

We enjoyed the pumpkin and sweet potato soup. I must say, this was not a combination I have ever thought of preparing at home, especially as sweet potatoes are not very common here but I shall try it next time I encounter sweet potatoes.

Soup was followed by a Risotto with Duck Breast which was moist without being sludgy.

Maria had prepared a menu which was a galaxy of gorgeous dishes with contrasting flavours and textures. She explained that patrons were invited every two months or so to a special dinner. In fact Trattoria Palazz was full of patrons and every table accupied, sometimes by familiar faces.

Risotto was followed by Lamb Fillet with Rosemary, Garlic and Merlot Falcon Ridge Jus. Each course was accompanied by a MonteKristo Falcon Ridge wine and Andrew Pace, their Sales Manager, took us gently by the hand and gave us a short and intelligent presentation as each new wine was introduced.

Pork fillet stuffed with walnuts, spinach, Parmesan and fresh herbs followed accompanied but roast potatoes and vegetables.

Despite ample portions, nothing was left on our plates and we even managed to end with a generous helping of apple crumble served with cinnamon ice-cream. This apple crumble was made with a good heart. And let’s forget the calories.

I so admire chefs like Maria Borg who, with some help, can produce dozens of these dishes in a week, at high speed and no doubt, sometimes nursing a hangover too, because in that ambience, how can you escape the drinking? You must have a sense of humour to survive and I can see, from the glint in her eyes, that Maria is born with one.

And of course, all this good food is about transformation; turning good but ordinary ingredients into something extraordinary.

It was a most pleasant evening in every way. Whenever I have been there it is usually on a Saturday, at lunchtime and we order a plate of their excellent pasta, which the girls, who don’t mince their words, tell me is so much better than mine. Next time we’re there I shall urge them to be a little more adventurous for the food is truly very good.

We are of course immediately seduced by those magic words ‘Russian ballet.’ The Crown of Russian Ballet Theatre presented Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker over two nights at the Mediterranean Conference Centre last week. On the Saturday there wasn’t a seat to be had. Perhaps the parents and relatives of the myriad Maltese ballerinas to be, who were on the stage at one time, went to watch their young ones dance. Perhaps the tickets were mostly complimentary. Nevertheless it was a good audience and who wants to be on stage if there isn’t full house and the audience is not responsive and appreciative?

Young dancers from some 21 local ballet schools filled the stage for the first half. They had been given an opportunity to rehearse and perform with first class dancers from Russia. In the first half of this most popular Christmas ballet the stage was full of youngsters. They gave us the famous characteristic dances which followed the Waltz of the Snowflakes: The Dance of Butterflies, Arabian Dance, Russian Dance and so on. The 19th century, when the ballet was set, was a time when the fantasies of children ran to such innocent pleasures as strawberry shortcake. How different it is today. It is quite amazing that so many young people take dancing lessons here. Even if few are likely to make a career out of it, nevertheless it is an excellent discipline.

I must say I enjoyed the second half much more when the stage was less crowded and the professional Russian dancers gave the audience some beautiful dancing filled with energy and imagination. But what a chance for our youngsters to experience dancing with such professionals.

There’s often so much talk about education and the maintenance of school premises, the provision of computers and general boasting of how much is being spent. Yet our illiteracy rates among school children seem to be increasing and not decreasing as they should be. The fight to help the poor to educate themselves and especially to improve the chances of clever children breaking out of poverty seems to have stopped here.

One of the pleasures of history is studying the careers of youngsters from poor homes who somehow manage to get themselves a bit of schooling and so put their foot on the ladder. A typical story is that of Andrew Carnegie, who eventually made himself the richest man in the world – richer in real terms than Bill Gates today – and then gave every cent of it back to the community, in accordance with his maxim ‘A man who dies rich dies shamed.’.

Although in our religion we learn that the poor and meek will get their reward in heaven, however, it would be reassuring to see them occasionally earn some of the good things in this life too. And education is the means. All too few manage to escape the poverty trap. So many descend into drugs and crime.

As things seem to be, judging from statistics, the knowledge abyss for the poor and underprivileged seems to be deepening inspite of the millions spent on education. Welfare single mothers and also families would be lucky if their children emerge from school able to read and write and therefore in a better position to sustain a job. Some of these children have good brains which state-school teaching seems ill-designed to nurture. A neglected, clever child is not only a personal tragedy but a high loss to society. From what I read and observe it seems to me that there is nothing to boast about when it comes to education. Education is largely the story of failure occasionally interrupted by a triumph such as the polytechnic. One gets the impression that enormous sums of money are spent on the maintenance of schools where workmen could spend days installing a doorknob. This sort of thing is not well-publicised as the Manuel Dimech Bridge or the maintenance of roads but it is still going on. And that money is coming out of our taxes, too. But the sadness of it all is the results obtained. At a time when we are talking of SmartCity – albeit in 2015 and not tomorrow – I find it scandalous that children are emerging from schools still illiterate and unable to write properly in any language. Let alone write and speak proper English. Perhaps the woman who is running those Fact not Fiction adverts could take off her rose-coloured spectacles and give us more of the unpleasant facts rather than repeat what we already know. But how silly of me. The whole point of those adverts is precisely to cover the unpleasant facts in a pink icing.

Those of us who found it indecent to be subject to Loo Bondi’s exploitation of Alfred Sant’s unfortunate health problems for blatantly political aims, were consoled that there are still decent people amongst us. Harry Vassallo was clearly reluctant to discuss the personal. He would have much preferred to talk policies rather than politicans, and was extremely sensitive in his comments, demonstrating his very genuine good wishes to Alfred Sant. Whilst making it clear that around the political table, he has his differences with Dr Sant, Harry Vassallo rejected all opportunities suggested to him by Loo Bondi to use speculation about Dr Sant’s present and future health to score cheap political points. On the contrary, as the thoroughly decent man he is, he was authentically encouraging in his wishes for a speedy and lasting recovery. Malta could do with more men like Harry around.

Most families, at one time or another, experience cancer. If they haven’t already done so the likehood is that they will, unfortunately. The least we can do is show compassion to those who are having to face this illness in their family, whether they are public figures or not. Perhaps Dr Sant should have been swished off to the Mayo Clinic away from prying eyes. But he chose to be looked after by Maltese doctors and para medics, which is typically of him since most of us shall not be in a position to do otherwise. Still, it is a consolation that apart from political spinners there are decent people who rallied around him, sent their good wishes and supported him and his family. He will weather the storm – with the help of St Anthony with whom I am online – and will be well again and give Malta the change at the helm it so badly needs.

The hero of the week must be Joe Said who was brilliant on Brian Hansford’s Realtà programme. I managed to see the repeat on Sunday and was impressed with a Mr Said who is urbane, articulate, sincere and dressed in co-ordinating grey to match his hair. Well-cut grey suit and tie but thankfully black and not appalling grey shoes. Of course, as to be expected, there are libel suits flying around to stop him from making any more appearances since what he has to say is not going to gain any votes for the Nationalist Party. But if he loses any of these libel suits we shall create a fund for him as he was truly very brave and outspoken and spoke well…..and those of us who are not writing anti-Sant columns and pandering to the PM, believe him, libels or not. We believe him.

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