Sunday, 3 February - Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is perhaps the perfect embodiment of all that Rajasthan represents. Deep in the heart of the Thar Desert, its impressive bastions are far-flung on the western border of what was previously Rajputana, while its palaces and havelis (mansions) display the aesthetic exquisiteness typical of the Rajputs.
Rajasthan was formed on 30 March 1949, when the princely states ruled by the Rajputs in the north-west of the subcontinent merged into the Dominion of India. This new state also included areas which were previously governed directly by the British Raj, such as the former province of Ajmer-Merwara.
The Marwaris and Rajasthan's formerly independent kingdoms created a rich architectural and cultural heritage. Several majestic forts and palaces, intricately carved havelis and decorated temples all over Rajasthan remain witness to an age of kings.
I am mesmerised by the picture of Jaisalmer's bastions, standing dominantly 30 metres over a city sprawling into the desert. Built from golden sandstone, they seem to merge with the golden hues of the desert in the glow of the setting sun. I am not surprised this fort is known as Sonar Quila, or the Golden Fort. The effect is little short of magical.
Tuesday, 5 February
I like to get lost while wandering through the narrow lanes within the fort compound, a complete residential area in itself. I stumble across a temple here and an art gallery there, savouring the aesthetic beauty of the building exteriors, which is quite unique.
Jaisalmer stands on an ancient trade route for caravans transporting goods for an unresourceful kingdom. Merchants had noble status and a great deal of power in the royal courts of the Rajputs, who founded it around the 12th century.
The entire city flaunts palace complexes and sandstone havelis belonging to rich merchants. Inspired by the royal styles, their facades have been worked delicately to display sculptural filigree, screen windows, delicate pavilions and beautiful balconies – a craft introduced by the Muslim travellers passing through. To date, this carving craft is continued so that most structures within and around the fort are simply delightful to look at.
Thursday, 7 February - Jodhpur
A little reluctantly, Leonard and I left Jaisalmer, but immediately on arrival in Jodhpur we can hold no regrets. There to welcome our arrival, perched on a 150-metre-high hill, the Mehrangarh Fort founded by Rao Jodha and dating from the 15th century displays its well-earned reputation as the most magnificent fort in Rajasthan.
A winding road leads to it from the city 5 kilometres below. There are seven gates and battle scars from canon balls shot by attacking armies can still be seen on the second gate. Lohapol, meaning iron gate, displays a moving record of how the queens of Maharaja Man Singh committed sati, the act of throwing themselves onto his funeral pyre.
The fort houses an impressive palace and several apartments such as the Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace), Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), Sileh Khana, Daulat Khana and a museum with a rich and varied collection of artifacts, miniature paintings, musical instruments, royal furniture and armoury.
The wealth and beauty within the fort cannot be given due credit using words. However, I equally appreciate the wander around the fort's walls, where folk musicians enchant me with their hypnotising sounds that create a particular atmosphere of times bygone.
Friday, 8 February
As I set my eyes on the Umaid Bhawan Palace, I am again impressed by the architectural heritage of the Rajputs. Maharaja Umaid Singhji was fascinated with western lifestyles so he commissioned an architect to build this three hundred and forty seven roomed palace in Edwardian style.
The Umaid Bhawan Palace, so named because of the particular type of sandstone used to build it, was constructed with superficial intentions of providing employment to famine stricken farmers, and resulted in India's largest private residence in the world. Today portions of the Umaid palace have been converted into a luxury hotel and a museum.
Sunday, 10 February - Udaipur
About 64 kilometres before we reach Udaipur from the north, we come across Kumbhalgarh Fort, which was the second most important citadel after Chittorgarh in the Merwar region. The fort, which was practically self-sufficient, was built by Rana Kumbha in the 15th century in a rather inaccessible location in the Aravali Mountian Ranges.
The fort's thick wall stretches about 36 kms and the bastions offer spectacular views. Although Maharana Fateh Singh renovated the fort in the 19th century, it now lays in ruins, nonetheless making a very interest walk around its compound.
Interestingly, Kumbhalgargh Fort contains Kartargarh Fort within it! Kartargarh has 365 temples and shrines, including a particular one dedicated to Lord Shiva with a huge Shivalinga, while the sanctuary is famous for its wildlife.
Monday, 11 February
In contrast with the desolate desert landscape crossed between cities, Udaipur looks like just another busy city when we first ride into it on our loyal Royal Enfield motorcycle. However we quickly discover that this first impression conceals some real treasures.
We are wandering about the city on foot when we are attracted by a great bustle of people, especially women in their striking, traditional Rajasthani dress. We approach the midst of the crowd and find ourselves by a lake-side, in the middle of which is the world-famous Lake Palace. A religious festival is taking place and Hindu women are bathing in the lake, a colourful splash to an already stunning backdrop.
Like a leaf on the surface of the water, the marvellous Lake Palace and its extensive gardens cover the entire four acres of Jag Niwas Island, so it appears like a gleaming white marble palace floating in the middle of the turquoise waters of Pichola Lake. It is no wonder that Lake Palace is reputed to be one of the most beautiful palaces of the world.
Indeed, its intricate craftsmanship of white marble, imitating the Agra style of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal, make the Lake Palace an exquisite beauty. Built by Maharana Jagat Singh in 1743 as a royal summer palace, it has since followed the common fate of many Rajasthani palaces and become a five-star hotel.
Towering over Pichola Lake is the City Palace. Initiated by Maharana Uday Singh, succeeding Maharanas added several structures to the complex in a surprisingly uniform design, including many balconies and towers overlooking the lake and promising wonderful views.
The rooms of the palace are decorated with glass, mirrors, ornamental tiles and paintings. The main part of the palace is now a museum, while the royal courtyard, the Rajya Angan, is the very spot where Maharana Udai Singh met the sage who told him to found a city here!
Wednesday, 13 February - Chittorgargh
A 180-metre-high hill rises abruptly from the surrounding plain. This is the site of Chittorgarh Fort, which is laid out across 280-hectares! The area is vast but we play sightseeing by riding through the gate and from ruin to ruin within the compound on our trusty Royal Enfield.
The fort offers several places of interest. We see many Hindu temples, a complex of Jain temples, several reservoirs and palaces originating between the 9th and 17th centuries AD.
The most imposing structure, the 15th century, 122-foot-high Vijay Stambh (Tower of Victory), is covered with sculptures of Hindu deities and episodes from the two great epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. The 12th century Kirti Stambh (Tower of Fame) stands seven stories high and is adorned with Jain sculptures.
Chittorgargh Fort is no longer inhabited and much of it lies in ruin. I like to imagine what it could have looked like, with several people bustling about its compound, in its days of glory!
Thursday, 14 February - Bundi
We have travelled far and seen much in few days so we are pleased when we arrive at the relatively peaceful city of Bundi. We immediately notice that, unlike the cities we have visited so far, here there are few tourists and the atmosphere is generally quite relaxed. We ride briefly around the city and notice that, despite not being very large, Bundi also has several interesting features. We decide that we could gladly spend a few extra days here.
The locals are friendly and we find accommodation with a family. We are pleased to notice that Bundi's traditional culture has not yet been polluted by Western influences. Traditionally, in India, there is little conception of male-female relationships beyond blood-family or marriage so, to avoid creating disturbance, we have to tell them that Leonard and I are husband and wife! It is often surprising the things you have to deal with while travelling!
Friday, 15 February
Our Royal Enfield makes exploring Bundi very easy, although it would be also possible to see this city on a bicycle! Our aimless wandering turns out to be very rewarding. Apart from the rather interesting goings-on of daily life at the colourful markets and within the narrow winding roads, we also make several stops at numerous places of interest we stumble across.
Bundi is renowned for its baoris or stepwells. There are around fifty scattered around, and we come across different ones in various degrees of maintainance. We also stumble across the Chaurasi Khambon ki Chhatri, which is located south of the town. It is a pavilion supported by eighty-four pillars and we have a game with some local people at counting the pillars. We see several other beautiful buildings, among which a striking, white Jain temple and the Sukh Mahal palace which stands on the banks of the Sukh Sagar.
Saturday, 16 February
The Taragarh Fort is without doubt the star attraction in Bundi. That there is no entrance fee to pay and there are no souvenir shops also win it several points. The experience of exploring the premises of the 14th century structure in solitude turns out to be one of the most peaceful and pleasant of all the fort-sight-seeing experiences we have had recently.
Inside, the Bhim Burj, a large battlement with a cannon, and a large reservoir carved out of single piece of rock, are instant eye-catchers. The views from the fort are exceptional, especially during the sunset until which time we linger, not wishing to leave this strangely attractive place.
Sunday, 17 February
Past the bazaar and adjacent to the fort, a wooden gate leads to the beautiful Bundi Palace. The entire area is laid out over three levels. We explore it in the presence of only plenty of mischievous Rhesus (red-faced) monkeys apart from ourselves.
Murals cover almost the entire palace walls. The development of frescos in Rajasthan is linked with the history of the Marwaris. Although many areas are not accessible for public viewing, we relish the beautiful murals we can see, which carry us back to the time of Bundi royalty.
Rajasthan – the land of kings – presents so much opulence! It comes to me as no surprise that this state is considered one of the jewels of India, so sought-after by tourists wishing to experience the India depicted in tales. Indeed, during these last couple of weeks, I have become witness to a most precious heritage of this incredible and inexhaustible India.
The Palace on Wheels, a super-luxurious, emperor-style rail-cum-road package tour, visits most of the above: http://www.palaceonwheels.net/
Episode 29 of Melanie Drury's diary is due on 3 March
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