Launch of ‘Subterranean Valletta’

 I attended the launch of my young nephew Edward Said’s book, Subterranean Valletta, published by that excellent organisation Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti. The launch was held in the bowels of Castille and presided over by Minister Dolores Cristina who is a good impromptu speaker.  Mr Maurice de Giorgio and Judge Giovanni Bonello (where would our heritage be without these two gentlemen I ask) and Edward, all said a few words: too few, I complained to Edward afterwards, as I wanted to hear more on the subject of underground Valletta from the author himself. I had missed his last talk.

I don’t attend many book launches… or vernissages, weddings (only family) and funerals. There are simply too many of them and I would do nothing else if I did. Edward’s gentle manner, inherited from his lovely mother (who unfortunately has given up making torta tal-lampuki) and his sense of humour make him a favourite in the family. He has always, as far back as I can remember, had plenty of interests – mostly connected with our heritage. How many times have I bumped into him, at Dingli Circus coming out of a shelter he was cleaning out when still in his late teen or early 20s. Pail and shovel in hand he is a hands on young man.

He tells me he started being interested in old buildings as far as he can remember.  He has some drawings of old houses of Sliema and Valletta which he drew from imagination when he was but six or seven. He used to build towns and cities from wooden building blocks and then have a war (with the assistance of his brother George), destroy them and then rebuild them.

What was it that started this interest? He owes it to his father and his passion for antiques and history first of all. But also to his mother. And his affection for Valletta to his mother’s mother, the late Nanna Guza who lived there.  “I can never get enough of it!’, he told me. I love his enthusiasm in a world where even many of the young are jaded and do their work in a half-hearted manner.

 His special interest in building conservation came from being brought up in Sliema in the ‘80s and ‘90s, a time which saw the systematic destruction of much of its unique architectural and urban fabric. (I remember writing an article for the Sunday Times all those years ago, Salvaging Sliema).  He recalls ‘vividly’ the demolition of Villa Paradiso next door to where we lived and where he now lives with his parents. This happened in 1985.  He found this to be a very disturbing experience, particularly for his parents, in the case of my brother especially, who was born there and has known no other house in Malta.

When we were young and well into our teens we were in and out of Villa Paradiso with its huge orchard, now turned into garages. It was first owned by the Schembris (Mr Schembri was a Labour MP and also had a pasta factory) and then by the Sciclunas. We were friends with both families and in and out of each others’ homes.

Edward believes that attending school at St Edward’s College with its beautiful Victorian buildings set in the baroque battlements of Cottonera also had a great deal to do with his present interests. I always like to ask the young: ‘what is your ultimate dream?’ Edward knows what he wants. He still dreams of working on some prestigious conservation projects abroad, particularly in Italy and North Africa however Malta is where he wants to practice, faced as it is with so many interesting historic buildings and their many challenges. One day he wishes to be in a position where he can make a real difference in saving our rich architectural heritage which he has always believed is (together with the history that goes with it) really and truly the only unique asset we have to offer the world. Lecturing at University has always been on his wish-list too. I have little doubt that with his character and abilities his dreams will come true.

It was an extremely original launch for the party then found its way to the Auberge d’Italie, where Napoleon Bonaparte is reputed to have stayed in his short sojourn in Malta. Had I known of this adventure I would have most certainly carried my semi-flatties with  me and changed into them. I would have never dreamt that under Castille there so much that is interesting. But as I was tip-toeing on the raised walkways trying to avoid falling into the inches of water below I recalled that this is where, some years ago, there was a proposal to build a museum. The idea was shot down. I also remembered going for a tour of the sewers of Paris on one visit to that beautiful city,  but had skipped the Paris Sewer Museum.  Victor Hugo wrote in Les Misèrables: "...Paris has another Paris under herself; a Paris of sewers; which has its streets, its crossings, its squares, its blind alleys, its arteries, and its circulation, which is slime, minus the human form.” This can be said of underground Valletta too.

I could not help thinking of the human cost which must have been involved in the building of Valletta and its bastions and fortifications. How many must have died, some in slavery.  We were reminded by Edward that the normal practice in those days was to quarry the stone for a building on the site of the building itself. Imagine what it must have been like, working underground for months and months.

We finally reached the beautiful courtyard of  the Auberge d’Italie where we were rewarded with drinks and canapés and best of all interesting people

Season’s Opening Concert at the Manoel

This year the opening concert was truly outstanding. It featured the European Union Baroque Orchestra, the cultural ambassador for the EU, on its third visit to Malta.  The concert entitled Corelli’s Legacy, was enjoyable right from the beginning and the enthusiasm of the young musicans was infectious. It was quite warm the evening of the 11 October at Teatru Manoel but we bore it with grace.  

The director and  violinst Riccardo Minasi deserves a special mention for his sense of humour (he spoke in English throughout) and his handling of the orchestra – and his violin.

I had never seen or heard one of the instruments played that evening: the Theorbo played by Francesco Tomasi and the harpsichord played by young musicians from France and Spain. The only composer I was familiar with on that programme was Corelli. The others were all new to me but, although I am not a great lover of Baroque music it was an evening to remember and exceedingly well organized.

I must say it was an excellent audience too and this invariably helps the musicians to rise to the occasion. We are looking forward to an excellent Season after that opening concert.

Pix of book here

Author of ‘Lost Generation’ at Markers

Peter Apap Bologna will be at Marker’s in Dingli Street, Saturday 10 November from 10.00am to Noon where he will be signing his book Lost Generations. This is a literary and political thriller set in the years 1923-1945 in Paris, Berlin, Geneva, London and New York and will be sold in aid of St Patrick’s Salesian School. Do go down and buy a copy of what  promises to be an excellent read to curl up with on cold wintery nights.