After a season focusing on the slip dress, Francisco Costa brought the Calvin Klein label back to basics: Suits.

"It's a very exciting season because I decided to play with suits and tailoring, which is a staple of the house," Costa said in a backstage interview. "Suits are an expression of urbanism, I think. We haven't seen much out there. And bringing it back I think is great."

Costa showed a lot of suits in black wool, some in pinstripe - very classic-looking except for the ubiquitous straps and suspenders hanging from many of them, intended for style rather than function.

But Costa needed some softness, too, and so he went for dresses that were - intentionally, of course - falling apart somewhat.

"For soft we have deconstructivism around the dresses," he said, "so that she (the woman) isn't so suited - she has another side, which is an undone side, which is great." And finally, he went for some faux fur, in collars. "I love the idea of fur! We've never done fur, so to play with faux fur was fun. "

Calvin Klein often brings in a celebrity-filled front row. Watching the show on Thursday were model Kendall Jenner and actresses Margot Robbie and Zoe Kravitz.

Kravitz especially liked the faux fur.

"Very simple, very sexy, good for winter," she said. "There were a pair of gloves that I definitely want."

-Nicole Evatt and Jocelyn Noveck

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GAS MASKS WITH A FASHIONABLE TWIST

While most New York Fashion Week shows focus on clothes, emerging Chinese designer Chi Zhang had a whole different spin.

Zhang, who has collaborated with Marvel Comics, showed off bold colorful designs including fashionable gas masks.

"My main focus is China, but here is a good opportunity for me," Zhang said backstage, referring to the U.S.. As for the fashionable gas masks, he says they're doing well. He also incorporates gas mask designs in his clothes. He started to sell them six years ago, two years before pollution became a big problem in China.

"Everybody thought I was crazy," he said. "Now, it's becoming true."

Zhang was among five emerging Chinese designers that JD.com, China's largest online direct sales company, showcased for its first runway show during New York Fashion Week.

The Beijing-based company highlighted the creations Wednesday night at a space near the Hudson River.

"These designers are all very talented and have unique expressions and styles," says Lijun Xin, president of JD.com's apparel and home furnishing business. The clothes are priced $100 to $300, JD executives say.

Just like the Milan show, the designer roster was chosen in collaboration with the Milan-based Europe Design Center.