Karen and myself knew little about Valletta, and were trying to make sense of the city map, when we were intervened by a lady sitting next to me. This charming woman explained she was Maltese and could help us with the map. This was the first native of Malta we had met, and l was fascinated by her elegance, her turquoise eyes that matched her turquoise jewellery and her eloquent, sophisticated voice, with a perfect command of the English language. We chatted throughout the flight and l did not realise that we had met Marie Benoît, a  Maltese journalist. Who would have told us then that it would not be long before social distancing would be required on flights, and so many other places and that COVID-19 would change our lives. Therefore, we look back with fond memories of our stay in Valletta,  the world free of the COVID virus and which we spent amongst that beautiful city of Baroque churches, palaces and curious ancient streets surrounded by the vivid blue Mediterranean sea.

Any country is fascinating for its own culture, Marie told us that Malta, though very small has its own identity and language mostly made up of a mixture of languages which various people who settled there left behind but largely Arabic but also Italian.  So, when we walked through the magical streets, we noticed that Italian dishes are offered in restaurants, and Maltese dishes too. 

A watchtower, St James Cavalier, Valletta

Since I have been associated with fashion on the streets of Valletta l noticed how well dressed the average Maltese woman is. Compared to the casually dressed tourists, most Maltese women were formally clothed in fashionable dresses, suits and accessories. The streets of Valletta seemed to me like a touch of Old Europe mixed with colonial, British tradition. A good example of this was the fascinating Babancu' shop just off Merchants Street. Here one could purchase the traditional Panama and sun hats, quality clothing and niceties expected of a shop established c. 1830.  Now, with Lockdown and COVID.19 restrictions many of these old world premises would probably be shut, both tourists and local people absent.

The capital, a perfect example of the 16th century grid layout has a rich variety of unusual architecture, though mostly Baroque, which gives a special character to the city.  We particularly enjoyed the view of the Mediterranean and Grand Harbour from many of the stepped streets - a surprise and a delight.I presume now with Covid-19 insidiously moving around Valletta, that Republic Street is quiet. However, when we visited there was a constant flow of tourists heading for the fortified ramparts and the Triton Fountain.  This fortified city has little watch towers topped by cupolas.

The area with the Cavaliers and palm trees gave me good subject matter to sketch.  Now with less traffic the air must be a lot clearer, and the Cavaliers standing sentinel to the four winds that blow, must be even more striking to the eye.

Olive trees in the garden, Grand Master’s Palace, Valletta

Back then I was suffering from a troublesome foot and needed some form of transport. So, my wife Karen and l took the little train and enjoyed a tour of Valletta in comfort. There is no underground in Valletta, but this colourful tourist train starts near St John's cathedral and wends its way slowly to Marsamxett Harbour, past the impressive Fort St Elmo, magnificent views all the way and a wonderful view of the Three Cities across the water. It returned back to St John's Cathedral. We had enjoyed it so much we asked the driver if we could stay on and go around again. He generously agreed and said we need not pay a second time, as long as we recommended the tourist train on Trip Advisor, which we did.  

Little did we realise then it would be sometime before we could take such a trip sitting at close quarters on a tourist train. Within four months the news came from China of a new virus that would prevent us all from doing the things we had taken for granted.

We decided to take a trip to Gozo, booking a company that took you around the island by buggy which could carry six people. We admired Baroque churches, majestic cliffs and the capital, Victoria. The island had a remote feel, and only in Victoria did we see tourists. Today the enjoyable buggies are probably still operating but only taking couples.

For us back in the UK, we think of St John's Cathedral standing sentinel over the port and city of Valletta, giving a sense of hope that the virus will fade away."