The Malta Independent 24 July 2026, Friday
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Cranes not courtyards

Emmanuel J. Galea Wednesday, 6 May 2026, 08:20 Last update: about 4 months ago

An octogenarian photographer Virgilio Carnisio from Milan, speaking to the Financial Times Magazine last weekend, expressed sadness over the gradual alteration of his city's case di ringhiera. These buildings, characterised by their short, dense structure and inner pebbled courtyards, once contained a complete community of washerwomen (women employed to wash clothes, linens, and fabrics by hand for others), carpenters, and men who played cards, all living within six storeys. Developers now sell renovated flats in those same buildings for close to €12,000 per square metre. The soul, he suggested, survived longer than the affordability. Reading Carnisio from a balcony in Sliema, one immediately recognises the story. Malta is living the same script, only faster, rougher, and with a far shorter ultimate act.

The similarities between the two subjects are quite extensive. Milan industrialised in the late 1800s, attracting peasants to its factories. The country's foreign-born residents now approach a third of the population, and in 2024 alone Malta absorbed over 21,000 new inhabitants. Milan housed its newcomers in railing blocks with shared balconies and external toilets; we house ours in glass-sided towers with video entry phones and identical tiled bathrooms. The ringhiera, for all its rudimentary plumbing, left behind a courtyard you could sing across. The contemporary Maltese apartment leaves behind a service shaft.

Consider what the island built before the cranes arrived. The traditional Maltese townhouse, the razzett, and the village terrace developed over centuries from a marriage of Sicilian and Arab practicality. The house features high ceilings for July cross-ventilation and an internal courtyard with a citrus tree and a bell-shaped well. Patterned tile floors, unique in each room, and a wooden balcony from the first floor offer sea breezes and street gossip. These were not picturesque accidents but were climate engineering. They answered Malta's hot-dry summers and humid winters with a logic that air-conditioning is now brute-forces at the expense of the national grid. They also answered something subtler: the question of how neighbours recognise one another. A courtyard forces acquaintance, while a lift lobby permits anonymity.

The collapse of this building grammar did not happen covertly. It happened by approvals from the Planning Authority. Records show 3,668 new dwellings approved in the third quarter of 2025 alone, a figure that would embarrass cities ten times Malta's size. Property values have more than doubled since 2013. Rents have climbed 71%. The average two-bedroom apartment in an urban area now costs roughly €250,000, and in Sliema or St Julian's the premium coastal stock fetches between €4,500 and €6,500 per square metre. On those numbers, a Maltese nurse cannot rent the street she grew up on, let alone buy into it. The market is not failing, but it is performing exactly as commissioned.

What it produces, architecturally, deserves scrutiny. The standard new block is four to six storeys tall. It maximises the footprint of the pavement. Developers stack identical units behind an elevation of aluminum apertures and rendered concrete. The block ends in a receded penthouse marketed as "exclusive." Rooms shrink to absorb the cost of the bathroom. Balconies shrink to absorb the cost of the room. Courtyards disappear entirely, replaced by air shafts too narrow to ventilate and too dim to plant. Neighbouring blocks rise so close that residents report staring into each other's living rooms; the country's own press has acknowledged the absurdity. Peter Gatt, President of the Malta Chamber of Geologists, recently warned about developers digging ten metres for basements without mandatory geological assessments. Italy and Greece addressed this regulatory gap decades ago. Buildings literally collapse into neighbouring plots during excavation. Fines for illegal development, at one recent count, included a €150 penalty for a Gozo project the Court of Appeal had ruled unlawful. Outstanding planning fines stood at €16.5 million in January 2026, virtually uncollected.

This is where the Milan comparison runs out of the road. Milan's developers have inherited homes worth renovating, and their luxury conversions maintain original architectural features. Malta's developers increasingly demolish the very stock that makes the islands legible. Over the past decade, they have demolished hundreds of townhouses in Rabat, Sliema, Floriana, and Gozo to make way for nondescript apartment blocks, similar to those found in Limassol, Tirana, or the less expensive areas of Dubai. The heritage the authorities promise to protect shrinks to a dozen Urban Conservation Areas around which new development encircles like under siege.

The defenders of this trajectory make two arguments worth addressing. In the first place, density is unavoidable on an archipelago of 316 square kilometres that already ranks ninth globally for population density. The second holds that the market delivers what buyers want. Both arguments dissolve on inspection. Density is not the question; the question is what density looks like. Paris, Barcelona, and Naples all achieve higher figures than most Maltese towns and produce streets people travel to photograph. The issue in Malta isn't building height itself, but the lack of design considerations. Buildings are rising without courtyards, setbacks, or cohesive streetscapes, and there's no requirement for new structures to harmonise architecturally with their neighbours. As for consumer preference, 70% of Maltese rental tenants are foreign workers who stay on average 3.5 years. The market is building for a transient renter, not a settled citizen, and confusing the two has deformed the policy debate for a decade.

Carnisio's photos will outlive him, but Malta faces the opposite issue. The buildings will remain long after their approval, yet the photographs documenting what came before are increasingly rare. Every new tower is permanent, as one local campaign put it recently, and every demolished townhouse is gone forever. Ninety-five percent of Malta now counts as urban. There is no countryside left to sacrifice on the next cycle.

A legacy is not what a generation intends to leave. It is what remains after the intentions fade. Milan's twentieth century bequeathed railing blocks that, even restored, still teach their occupants how to live beside one another. Malta's twenty-first century risks passing on only the floor plan of a two-bed investment unit, reproduced 50,000 times, oriented towards whichever view the next block has not yet obscured. Those Carnisio grandchildren, who ski and swim but don't know their own city, have Maltese cousins. The cousins will inherit the apartments. The question is whether anything inside them will be worth inheriting.


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