The Malta Independent 1 May 2024, Wednesday
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Whisky: It’s all in the Flavour

Malta Independent Tuesday, 19 November 2013, 15:56 Last update: about 11 years ago

Colin Fitz discovered the best way to drink whisky with EWAN GUNN, the Global Scotch Whisky Ambassador and Category Training Manager at Diageo, the UK company with the widest range of whiskies in the world.

Mr Gunn was in Malta to deliver a lecture on single malt whiskies to Maltese whisky enthusiasts. Diageo’s Scotch collection ranges from Johnnie Walker – the world's number one selling blend, to the iconic J&B. The company also owns 28 different single malts, six of which, Cardhu, Cragganmore, Talisker, Lagavulin, Oban and Dalwhinnie, Ewan spoke about at the event held at the InterContinental. Following the lecture, the 250 attendees were given the opportunity to taste each one, with Ewan guiding them to appreciate their history, aroma and flavour in particular order.

Single Malt Whisky is made at one particular distillery from a mash that uses only malted barley. Under Scotch Whisky Regulations, a Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be made exclusively from malted barley (although the addition of  caramel colouring is allowed), must be distilled using a pot still, and must be aged for at least three years in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres. 

Ewan started off by urging people to drink responsibly. Irresponsible consumption, he said, is not in his company’s interest as there is no ‘appreciation of flavour’ in it. Flavour is in fact a concept he kept going back to again and again. The way he described the various types of whisky, reminded me of an art historian speaking passionately about different styles of art.

“If you’re new to whisky, try a variety,” he urged. “Don’t stick with your first perception. I remember the first few I tried, when on holiday on the Isle of Islay, I didn’t particularly like. Even espresso or red wine might taste too strong the first time you taste it – but once you start trying different single malts and blends, you will start to appreciate the different flavours and understand the process that has created them. Believe me, it’s a taste worth acquiring.”

Scotch Whisky’s stronghold has always been Western Europe and America, but Ewan’s job has seen him witness an increase in demand from South America to China.

“What’s interesting is the way they are choosing to drink it,” he explained. “In Asia they’re drinking it mixed with ice green tea – which I found delicious. In Latin America they mix it with coconut water. Purists might frown, but there is no ‘proper way’ to drink whisky. After all, when Scotch first emerged hundreds of years ago, it had a powerful taste and used to be flavoured with herbs and spices. So I find how different communities apply individual twists to their Scotch to be very interesting.”

Ewan also noted the resurgence of interest in Scotch cocktails, drinks that used to be popular in the early part of the 20th Century but were superseded by white spirits for some time.

Scotch in its various forms has a universe all of itself, and the event really got me interested in, as he said, looking for new tastes and experiences in every drop of what I tried. The tasting of the six single malts was done in a strict pattern, and Ewan ensured that no alcohol was served before it for the sampling experience to be as pure as possible.

As for ‘the best’of the six, I’ll leave it in his own words.

“For me, the best single malt is the one I’m enjoying at any particular moment. It can depend on many factors: who I’m enjoying it with, and where. But if you had to press me I’d say I keep returning to Talisker. It is complex, it has a hint of salt sea air, a little bit smoky. And I’m in good company: did you know that in the original Ian Fleming James Bond novels, the secret agent would drink Talisker not Martini?”

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