There have been lots of warm fuzzies on the Milan runway this season: shaggy fur, furry footwear, thick knits, big gloves, droopy caps, face-framing neck-warmers. All useful for hunkering down in turbulent times.
Four days of menswear previews for next winter and fall at Milan Fashion Week ended Tuesday with a focus on soft tailoring and comfortable looks.
Blazers tended to be long, and paired with loose-fitting trousers. Overcoats, if not furry, had fur collars. Shoes had big soles with fresh detailing like rubberized studs or built-in socks, but most of all tufts of adorable fur.
There was a nostalgic return to homey knitted gloves and caps. Designers also opted for a rough look with half-finished accents, big embroidery and some deconstruction. Bags were big, ready for a quick get-away. Colors tended toward deeper urban shades of gray and black, with flashes of white, and some designers opted for color blocks.
Some highlights from the final day of Milan Fashion Week, which included previews by three Asian designers supported by the National Italian Fashion Chamber:
____
ARMANI IS WRAPPER-IN-CHIEF
Giorgio Armani was the first among wrappers this menswear season.
Armani defined the silhouette of his easy tailored looks with a novelty: sleeve scarves that warm the arms and wrap across the chest. Armani opted for a generous variety, from fine knits in prints or contrast colors for sunny days when an overcoat might be too much, to chunkier furry versions.
The designer also brought back the tie and three-piece dressing for day, in soothing charcoals with a dark velvet double-breasted vest for a dandy look, finished with a narrow-brimmed Trilby hat.
Masculinity was projected in geometric patterns including triangular blocks on zip-up hoodies and softer alpaca pullovers. Hiking boots completed many looks and bags included satchels and doctor bags.
For truly cold days, there were large hooded coats and shaggy furs.
____
MILAN WELCOMES A NEW GENERATION
Giorgio Armani continued a recent tradition of inviting up-and-coming designers to preview their collections in his theater. He has helped launched the likes of Stella Jean, Andrea Pompilio and Au Jour Le Jour in recent seasons.
This round, the choices were all Asian designers, which the head of the Italian fashion chamber, Carlo Capasa, said was deliberate.
"We wanted to give a sign of internationality, " Capasa said. "Milan Fashion Week is an open week. We wanted to capture the energy from wherever it comes."