The Malta Independent 27 April 2024, Saturday
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Impish, boyish looks permeate Milan's menswear runways

Wednesday, 25 January 2017, 16:20 Last update: about 8 years ago

Impish, boyish looks are permeating the Milan menswear runway this season, and the mood seems to be a search for a simpler past.

Hooded parkas with contrasting color panels, straight trousers, boxy jackets and slightly oversized knitwear bely a nostalgia for the 1970s - a time when, more than one designer has recalled, there was more social protest and less social pressure.

Here are some highlights from Monday's menswear previews for next fall and winter on the third day of Milan Fashion Week.

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TRUST FENDI

The Fendi runway was awash in optimism, and what could be more optimistic than a yellow and blue striped fur shopper?

"I want to be optimistic. I have children," Silvia Venturini Fendi said backstage.

The collection was relentlessly upbeat. Mixed and matched fur accents on over coats, like leopard sleeves and striped collars, offered a sense of graphic hi-jinx, as did a red banner reading "Fantastic" up the side of a fur coat.

Fendi dotted the garments with uplifting and sometimes ironic messages, from "Love" on the front of head bands to "Bliss" on zipper pulls to "Hope" on the side of a bag and "Trust Fendi" on the front of a sweater.

Furry blue slippers read FEN on the right foot and DI on the left.

"For me it is not just a logo, it is a history," the designer said.

The silhouette was very simple and sporty, filled with everyday attire mixed more formal pieces. Part of the indulgence was also in the colors, with pink for men, alongside coral, sky blue and yellow. Footwear had a substantial, futuristic feel, with Italian leather shoes with integrated socks, like high-tech soccer cleats.

Backstage, Korean popstar Taeyang greeted Fendi, who told him she couldn't wait to see him on stage wearing pieces from the collection. Soon, he said.

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THE BILLIONAIRE'S CLUB

What the gilded helicopter in the middle runway didn't convey, the theme song to "Dallas" did.

The Billionaire brand founded by Italian businessman and former Formula One manager Flavio Briatore is relaunching under the creative direction of German designer Philipp Plein, who aims to make it the most exclusive men's brand in the world.

Plein's team scoured modeling agencies for gray bearded men to play oilmen in his billionaire fantasy.

They all wore cowboy hats, boots and tight pants, and walked with a knowing swagger. After that, they had their choice of leather jackets -- from short and sporty to long and showy in purple with a fur collar -- suede coats and tuxedo jackets.

"He is a genius," Briatore said of the designer after Monday's preview. "Luxury is a very important niche. It creates jobs."

Briatore's next date: The inauguration Friday of his friend, Donald Trump, as president of the United States. The Italian businessman said he leaves for Washington on Tuesday.


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