The Malta Independent 22 May 2024, Wednesday
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Marie's Diary: Waterbiscuit: distinctly cool

Marie Benoît Monday, 30 January 2017, 14:18 Last update: about 8 years ago

According to the Good Guide to Restaurants there are over 2000 restaurants on these islands vying for clients but only 150 are listed in the Guide. They are chosen on the basis of the Guide’s annual survey and not at random. The Waterbiscuit at the Intercontinental is one of the chosen few. I was invited by Charlene Le Gall, Director of Communication, to dine with her one evening last week; not exactly a sacrifice. I had been to Waterbiscuit on a number of occasions. But they were launching not one but two new menus: an All Day Dining Menu which is served from 12.30pm to 23.00 and a new dining menu, too.

Students of restaurant fashion would put Waterbiscuit in the modern state-of-the-art category, with its sleek lines and open kitchen. It is not busy with baubles and pictures but soothingly neutral although you can get more than just a glimpse of the bright lights outside and imagine you are in Times Square, if you need more colour. I find it has a discreet charm about it and the ambience lacks any kind of brashness. Tables are spaced out sufficiently and there are some cubicles where you can have an intimate conversation, even a kiss or two if you wish, or enjoy the meal with a small party of friends or family.  If there were spies hoping to eavesdrop and take a clandestine picture with their smart phone they would find it quite difficult in one of these.  

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Charlene was recently married to a  Maltese and is happily adjusting to married life. After all she has lived in Malta for several years.

 During the course of dinner we decided that it was not marriage which changed a woman's life but children. It is then that the juggling begins.

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Austin Xerri, the restaurant manager was introduced to me and gave us the menu. He went through it without orations and histrionics. He suggested a cocktail while we were deciding what to eat. We tried to make a choice for a three course dinner. Soon Miroclav Slavov, one of the bartenders arrived with our cocktails a Cucumber basil Martini composed of Vodka (or Gin), basil, cucumber, lemon juice and syrup for both of us. This cocktail is one of several on the menu. Delicious. I even ate the delicately twisted cucumber which looked so refreshing although mentally I slapped myself on the hand for being so greedy.

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At last after a longish consultation with the menu, which was full of promise, the patient and simpatico Austin Xerri came to take our order. The sommelier, a Hungarian who had just returned from Davos and going by the name of Bonifac Dobos ("I've been living in Malta for five years madam!") offered to help us select a wine. Much to his disappointment we both decided to drink water that evening to make up for the excesses of recent occasions.

Ah! The food. For starters Charlene opted for Beef tartare, caper mayo, Parmesan and confit egg yolk - beautifully presented. I liked the idea of Smoked cheese royal, caramelized onion mousse, pickled onion petals, sesame smoked paprika crumble. No hope of making that at home. It made a change from lentil soup and ministra for that is what I try to eat in winter as first course, a variety of soups, always hoping to lose some weight. My choice was an exercise in gastronomic subtlelty and a beautifully harmonious scrum of flavours. Charlene was very happy with her choice too. The chef de cuisine is Brady Dalli an enthusiastic young man who also has a good eye for making a dish look desirable.

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Charlene told me that they have introduced a more casual menu with heartier dishes: comfort food such as the classic Eggs Benedict - you can have the more simple version, the Royale version with smoked salmon or the vegetarian version. The Royale will set you back Euros 7.50, the other two dishes less and they are a meal in themselves. Also on the menu is the classic club sandwich served with homemade fries, a chicken and mushroom pie, a grilled Aberdeen Angus beef burger and more including pasta and rice dishes.  I made a mental note to go there with a couple of friends or perhaps family for a lighter - and cheaper meal one of these days. Parking, always a consideration, is easy in the Interconti car park.  

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Austin, all smiles - brought us our second course which followed rapidly on the heels of the starter. Sharp service indeed. No hanging around waiting too long for the main course here. Charlene had braised pork cheeks, creamy Jerusalem artichokes with black garlic potato purée.  I opted for fish - you know it's good for the heart and the brain and the waist (if you have one!) they say. Yes. and if not eaten with chocolate biscuits, Turkish delight and a whole lot of carbs. My latest discovery at Scotts is St Anthony bakery. Their bread is irresistable.

 The Grouper arrived with a smoked aubergine purée, a baby aubergine and caper berry beurre blanc. We asked for small portions of potatoes and there was a dish of delicious thick strips of aubergine in breadcrumbs which I loved and which I must try out at home. There were many bright points to this meal and that includes the staff whose aim was to please us. There wasn't a sullen face to be seen anywhere.

In the course of conversation Charlene said I must go along one of these days to see the new luxury highline suites which were going to be launched in April. There was no time to do it that evening.

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Torn between greed and bloated belly (in my case only) and a look at the choice of desserts greed won for I could not resist the temptations on the menu. I wanted to try them all but kept my greed to myself. Charlene had a vanilla crunch bavarois with delicious looking bits and pieces and I plumped for the chocolate dessert with kumquat pannacotta and macademia nuts which turned out to be palate punching. It was superb but simply too much for me although I did my best to bully my stomach into submission. Regrettably I had to leave half of it behind. I gave it a wistful look as we finally moved downstairs. It had grown too late to partake of coffee as both of us had had a busy day and were ready to go home.   However, before leaving we were paid a lightning visit by Executive Chef Roger Friggieri who has been in the news lately.

Yes, the menu was a new one and I cannot do it justice here for there simply isn't space. We enjoyed the meal in its various aspects. The dishes were fresh and inventive and the staff cheerful and unpretentious; Charlene informative and entertaining at the same time.  The cuisine crossed national culinary borders but if I must put it in a category it would be that of fine dining.

I look forward to sampling the All Day Dining Menu one of these days and make further inroads in the dining menu. All this after I have lost a couple of kilos.

 

 


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