If you travel up the River Thames from Westminster in central London, as the royals have done for hundreds of years, you pass the ruined hulk of the old power station at Battersea and then the landscape begins to change. The buildings thin out and the greenery thickens, the vistas become green and flat and waterfowl replace the river traffic.
The river meanders fickly at this stretch, and the straggles of wild water-birds - swans, ducks, grebes, geese, herons, egrets, even terns and gulls - are a harbinger of the natural landscapes ahead. A little further on, after a boat journey lasting almost an hour from Westminster, the boat arrives in Richmond on the edge of London - which is where the royals disembarked, heading for their palaces or country retreats, the very same buildings that, together with grand parks, now comprise the eminent tourist attractions in Richmond.
As you disembark, your first impression of Richmond will probably be your lasting impression. Richmond is different: it remains aloof and seemingly separate from the city. It is affluent, rural, and palatial - and offers a great day out, with a plethora of historical and outdoor delights that are not found anywhere else in London. All the attractions are close to the river's banks - the most conspicuous and central attraction being the iconic Richmond Bridge itself. Built in 1777, with five grand arches, Richmond Bridge is London's oldest bridge, an elegant, low-slung architectural set-piece, the light-grey Purbeck stone of which blends well with other buildings and the greenery that fringes the riverfront.
The riverfront is where Richmond's inhabitants go to play. A wide promenade skirts the river and behind it is a strip of greenery that is shaded by large plane trees, with neo-Georgian buildings set further back. The promenade bustles on summery or sunny afternoons, when dense crowds throng from the pubs or cafes or simply recline on the grass, watching what's going on: the rowers in canoes and boats on the river, the waterfowl quacking for pickings, the vehicle traffic streaming over the mediaeval bridge, the procession of people on foot or on bicycle.
Getting your bearings from the riverfront at the town centre is easy: a towpath stretches in both directions along the riverfront, downriver leading to Kew Gardens and Syon House and upriver going to Richmond Hill and Ham House. Kew Gardens should take precedence, being the largest and most varied self-contained attraction in Richmond.
Originally founded by Princess Augusta and Lord Bute in 1759, and now a World Heritage Site, Kew Gardens hold around 19,000 species of plants and trees in their 132 hectares, as well as various architectural monuments. Most iconic are the two glasshouses, the largest of which, now known simply as the 'Palm House' was constructed in 1844. A curvaceous glasshouse, that resembles a ship flipped upside down, it is now widely considered London's most magnificent Victorian iron and glass structure and is full of exotic palm trees that thrive in its warm and clammy interior. Another striking feature is the highest in Kew, a 10-storey, 50-metre high octagonal pagoda that was erected in 1762.
Yet Kew is greater than the sum of its buildings or plants. Kew is a complex habitat, formed by an interaction between humans and nature, partly a repository of global plant life and partly human creation, a place that celebrates nature and art. I dropped in to see Tony Kirkham, the head of arboretum. "Every time you visit Kew you will encounter something different," he said to me. "Even winter is an exciting time, with the raw nakedness of branches and life seemingly shut down."
Across the river from Kew - and visible from Kew's Syon Vista - stands the austere bulk of Syon House, home of the Dukes of Northumberland for the past 400 years and now open to visitors. Its forbidding, castellated exterior is in stark contrast to the interior - an opulent 18th-century splurge of columns, statues, paintings, poster beds and fine architectural details. It is the most splendid palatial house in Richmond and it is set in vast landscaped grounds - which, however, are not as attractive as Kew.
The other two notable stately homes are Ham House and Marble Hill House. The latter has a bare interior, while the former - Ham House - is definitely worth a visit. It is situated upriver from Richmond's riverfront, a walk of less than 30 minutes along the towpath, and still contains its original 17th-century furnishings. The interior is, in fact, one of the finest Stuart interiors in the UK and the eye can find plenty to feast upon in the ornate plasterwork and silverwork, the stupendous Grand Staircase, the evocative paintings in the Long Gallery and other wonderful features such as ceiling paintings and exquisite parquet flooring.
Behind Ham House, the land rises to Richmond Hill, the focal point of Richmond Park, Europe's largest city park. It is a rugged park, with stretches of bracken alternating with grassland and old coppiced woodland, home to wild deer - both red and fallow - and mature English oaks. It would take two days to walk around the park - it measures 13km at its widest point - so it's best if you get your bearings right and explore just a section of it. I traipsed around the more varied landscaped section that runs parallel to the river. I marvelled at the tunnel formed by climbers that swaddle a trellis, a garden of azaleas and rhododendrons, grassy sections peppered with brilliant-yellow buttercups, gnawed and enigmatic English oaks and English parkland birds - tits, thrushes, doves, blackbirds, pipits, and larks - that filled the air with their melodious trilling.
The highest point in Richmond Park is King Henry VIII's Mound, a bombastic name for a hillock where a viewing telescope is located, pointing to St Paul's Cathedral in central London, a mere 12km away. On the opposite side, the sweeping panorama takes in the rural cityscape of northwest London: Heathrow Airport is visible in the mid distance, with stately buildings visible in gaps between the trees, including the battlements of Hampton Court, the royal tower and stronghold a couple of kilometres upriver.
In the late afternoon I returned to Richmond's riverfront - a 15-minute walk downhill - where the promenade thickens with people sipping beer after work. Here, the differences and similarities merge: although Richmond is different from other parts of London, it is also a counterpart of the more urbane parts of the city. Returning to central London, especially if you travel by boat to Westminster, you cannot help feeling that Richmond gives London a more complete and rounded character: Richmond is as aloof as it is essential.
Richmond Practicalities
Getting there: You can travel to Richmond from central London by underground train (Richmond is on the District Line) or overland trains from Waterloo Station, as well as commuter boats operated by Thames River Boats from Westminster Pier. For more information visit wpsa.co.uk/index.html or call (+44) (0) 207 930 2062.
Getting around: Kew Gardens are one underground stop away from Richmond town centre (to get to Syon House, on the other side of the river, requires a bus or taxi detour - taxis will cost about £15). Other points such as Ham House, the riverfront and Richmond Park - are all within walking distance.
Eating & Drinking: You can find extensive information about Richmond - including lists of places to stay and restaurants - on the official tourist information website, at www.visitrichmond.co.uk. There are plenty of cafes, restaurants and pubs along Richmond's riverfront promenade.