I walked through the huge green door with metal lions for doorknockers and waited for Signor Moscheni to receive me. After a few moments I was shown inside the stone walls of the Casinò di Venezia, which is housed within a recently-restored 17th century Palace.
Halfway up a flight of stairs, we got a view of the gaming halls – alit with the beautiful Venetian chandeliers which are reputed to have cost a small fortune. More stairs and then an elegant red room with stone walls. This led to another room – the blue room – covered with fine blue Venetian drapes. There is also the ‘privé’ room, where selected patrons can play in privacy. The ancient splendour of the Vittoriosa palace shines through the lit halls.
Signor Giuseppe Moscheni, the Casinò di Venezia’s manager, turns out to be a charming Venetian man. “I would like my guests to feel ‘padroni’ when they come here,” he says. This can now be extended to mean not only the Casinò’s patrons but also guests coming to the Palace restaurant or to attend a function. In fact, the Casinò has recently opened its beautiful halls not only to patrons wishing to use the Casinò but also to persons merely wishing to enjoy a dinner in Vittoriosa, seated on the Palace’s terrace with its stupendous views – or who would like to organise a wedding or other event within the Palace walls.
“These halls are destined for cultural activities – we have recently started holding art exhibitions. They are made for meetings, weddings, elegant parties,” explains Signor Moscheni.
He points out that there have been changes and now the gaming tables are on the ground floor. “We think that this area should be revived not only in terms of play activity but also in terms of the potential of using them for a ‘momento d’incontro.’ So we have liberalized the possibility of entering the restaurant for those under 25 years. Before they were not allowed in as they had to pass through the gaming rooms but now there is a separate entrance for it and the age requirement of 25 years has been waived – although we have retained the 18 years’ standard since this is still a Casinò.” However, guests are not required to register to get to the restaurant, since it is now a separate entity, and those between 18 and 25 are now free to enjoy their ‘moments’ or their meetings here at the bar and restaurant.
Signor Moscheni is very proud of the restaurant and points out that those patrons who haven’t been here for a long time are in for a very positive surprise. “The cuisine is Mediterranean alta cucina and we can also propose specially selected menus on request.”
The restaurant’s internal part will shortly be completely redecorated. Its terrace overlooks wonderful views of the Grand Harbour, Valletta, Fort St Angleo and Senglea. “I think this is the most beautiful view in Malta,” says Signor Moscheni. The Casinò di Venezia, also known as Scamp’s Palace or the Captain’s Palace is a 17th century Palace which was used as one of the initial seats of the Knights of Malta. It lies on the Vittoriosa Waterfront and forms part of a project for the revival of the old city, formerly neglected.
The Palace was, in fact, semi-demolished when the Casinò di Venezia acquired some rights over it. It was completely restored, retaining the original façade and internal stone walls, and redecorated with Venetian drapes and chandeliers. It was opened to great celebration in August 2001.
Signor Moscheni himself took over some 18 months ago. “We try to offer kindness and service to our clientele,” he says further explaining that plans are also in progress for the construction of a luxury five-star hotel close to the Casinò. “As part of our activities to revitalize this area, the construction of a luxury five-star hotel is planned for around February, although this timeframe depends on permits. It will be a five-star hotel with around 170 rooms and, once works begin, should be completed in around 18 months.”
Meanwhile, the Casinò can boast an aristocratic Palace situated on the edge of the waterfront. Behind lies the ancient city of Vittoriosa, pulsating vibrantly in the background, with its maze of churches, streets, old auberges and palaces. Every step is steeped in history – but because it is so lived-in there is also a sense of life and vitality in Vittoriosa.
“Although I have been here for some time now, I don’t really go out that much, I tend to wander in the palace halls because they are so beautiful and atmospheric. But when you walk the streets of Vittoriosa, it’s really wonderful… Malta should publicise its history more than its sun and sea image. I think that now, with the relaunching of this zone – maybe there will be more appreciation for it and hopefully more people will come to this unique and historical part of the Mediterranean. Already many people who did not know Vittoriosa and who rarely came here are beginning to look at it with different eyes.”
Contrary to popular impression, many of the Casinò’s patrons are Maltese, says Signor Moscheni. There are only four casinòs in Italy and none in Sicily, although this is set to change, he explains, as the Italian government should be shortly issuing a decree of law for the opening of playhouses. Nevertheless, although a few players from Italy and Sicily do come it is not very convenient for them to travel to Malta, explains Signor Moscheni. “There is the problem of transport. The Italian client who comes here arrives comfortably only from two places: Rome and Catania. It’s also a problem of flight schedules and of high travel costs. Therefore we do not get as many clients as we should.
“There are rumours that new casinòs will open in Malta. If you take into account the population, the limited travel facilities provided when compared to other countries, this would be news of great preoccupation for us. It would be difficult for four or five casinòs to survive in Malta.”
The Casinò di Venezia has seen various changes in direction. It is now considered a serious casinò.
Signor Moscheni is optimistic about the future. “We hope that this area will continue to be revived. It should be a zone which is enticing to foreign investors. I am enthusiastic about this project and would like to see it to its conclusion, if I can.”