Moira Meilaq chats to Marie Benoît about pearls and their threading.

Mae West was very upfront about her penchant for real jewellery: “I collect diamonds,” she once drawled; “it’s ma hobby.” How she acquired them she didn’t say (we know that goodness had nothing to do with it) but one can safely assume that she was presented with them by a wealthy beau by moonlight and to the accompaniment of a romantic film score.

We don’t know whether she liked pearls and if she had been let loose at the Jos. Debono jewellery shop in Merchants Street, whether she would have gone wild with delight and bought a few strands.

Going into this jewellery shop has the same thrill as entering a sweet shop – only there are all these glorious, colourful pearls instead of sweets. However, unlike some jewellery shops, it does not have the feel of a hallowed sanctuary. The girls are friendly and welcoming and Moira Meilaq, the genial threader of pearls, says that clients “very often become friends, coming to visit whenever they are in Valletta.”

Moira is married to Christopher and they have an 11-year-old son Daniel. “I had to stop working when Daniel was born. The working hours at a shop are not exactly ‘family friendly’! However, I returned almost three years ago. Threading pearls became a kind of hobby. It’s rather like sewing or crochet I love doing things with my hands.”

Moira is calm and poised as one needs to be to do her delicate job. She started working with Jos. Debono Jewellers, which was established in 1899, at the end of 1989. “It was not my first job, but I had always wanted to work with jewellery. I find that jewellers’ shops are different from other shops and working in them feels different too.

You must be especially responsible to work in one, surrounded by so many beautiful and precious objects.” She does not have to tell me that the merchandise is worth thousands.

How did she learn how to thread pearls? “It was Mr Lino Debono, one of the directors, who taught me. He had spent some time in the Far East learning all there was to know about pearls including threading. It takes some time to get the knots right but you eventually discover your own technique and keep improving on it.”

She explained that both cultured Sea Water or Akoya pearls, as they are better known, as well as cultured Fresh Water pearls are usually imported temporarily strung. “In the case of Akoya strands, when making up a collier, the pearls are transferred onto silk thread and knotted between each one. Individual knotting will prevent all the pearls in a strand from falling off, should a break occur.” Moira explains that knotting also prevents the pearls from rubbing against each other. “It is advisable to re-thread pearls every two or three years to prevent collier breakage,” she cautions.

Fresh Water Pearls are re-strung on synthetic thread usually made of nylon. “A knot is placed every 5 to 8cm,” she comments.

Moira has found over the years that clients learn to trust you. “Trust, is important especially when selling pearls for unlike gold or silver, pearls are not stamped. Clients have to take your word for it when it comes to quality and provenance.”

On a personal level she says she is glad she has returned to work. “I would certainly have missed work had I stopped. I like meeting people. I think as long as one finds a compromise between work and the family it is a good idea for a woman to continue working.”

She has met a great many people, handled all kinds of pearls and threaded them as well. She recalls one particular incident which still makes her smile. “Quite a few years ago when Mabe Pearls were first introduced in our shops a couple walked in and seeing a lovely pair of Mabe earrings set in diamonds asked whether they were real cultured pearls. I replied that they were Mabe pearls. The husband looked at me crossly saying: “Miss do you or don’t you know what you’re selling.” Now, as you probably know Mabe Pearls are found at Lake Mabe hence the name. The man thought I had said ‘maybe’ not Mabe, hence the misunderstanding.”

She imparts a little more knowledge about pearls: “Pearls are soft compared to other gemstones and precious metals. Special care should be taken to ensure that they remain bright and beautiful for generations to come. Always keep pearls separate from other jewellery items, to prevnt them from scratching. Cosmetics, perfumes and hair spray all contain chemicals that can dull the lustre of pearls, so it is recommended that pearls be put on after applying makeup.”

She continues threading a necklace with great care but seems to be enjoying the ritual, handling each pearl as if it were a very precious and unique jewel.

If only everyone was as reliable as Moira!

(If you require the threading service at Jos.Debono Jewellers please call 21 236858)