An invitation to an exclusive dinner for just 12 people at the Chef's Table at the Hilton intrigued me. I did not ask questions as I like being surprised. Who were the other 11 guests going to be? Executive Chef Joe Vella has an astonishing reputation and several cookery books to his name. His creativity seems to have no bounds. Of course I had eaten his food at the Hilton many a time but the Chef's Table? Well, I immediately noted it in Red ink in my diary which is brimming over with bills, bits of paper - telephone numbers and notes to myself - and business cards which sooner or later I mislay.

So off I went to the Hilton on the last day of April -  it seems like yesterday. The idea is to be able to experience what's behind the preparation of such a dinner in the heart of a truly professional kitchen. Tamara Naudi, watching me closely,  whispered that there was going to be Foie Gras, 'just for you'. My eyes shone at the thought. 

After pre-prandial drinks we sauntered into the vast and spotless kitchen and there was Joe and his brigade and an elegant table with beautiful plates and Christofle silverware. I was very tempted to turn one of the plates upside down to see their provenance but I heard my mother whisper in my head: 'Don't you dare!'. I desisted.

Well, I should not be eating Fois Gras one moment - and a very generous portion at that served with a strawberry jus - and then statins for supper. But there you are, one might as well die eating decent food. The Fois Gras was followed by a Texture of Cauliflower. Never has cauliflower tasted so interesting: a mousse of cauliflower, a beignet of cauliflower, couscous and roast cauliflower beautifully presented.  I generally find that cauliflower is a rather insipid vegetable and I do two things with it: put it into minestra and make croquettes with lots of eggs,  parmesan and of course garlic and parsley which make the croquettes tasty. What genius to bring a kick into the humble cauliflower in different ways, too.  

 Ah, then it was Duck Terrine - a confit made of duck's legs drizzled with something delicious. I love duck but it can be too dry and sometimes even tough. A l'orange is delicious and I like it the way the Chinese serve it, with thin pancakes. One thought struck me. Does  Sai Mizzi know how to prepare traditional Chinese dishes or is she pure brain? This confit of duck was pleasantly different and I blew the kitchen brigade a kiss.

Next course was prawns, tuna with a sliver of the famous Lardo di Colonnata on top.  What a treat! This Lardo, which is not lard of course, is apparently made using an ancient technique to preserve not just meat but the fat, in the village of Colonnata. It is a much sought after delicacy. It was a first time for me. I could easily double my dose of statins and eat it once a week if I could afford it.

There was Goat Cheese Royal and Braised Lamb Shank Croquette. This was top notch cooking all the way. Joe Vella and his brigade rarely missed a tantalizing trick. I mean who ever thought of turning lamb shank into a croquette and serving it with goat cheese? An innovative take indeed. And, in all this, not a single dirty casserole in sight.

Veal fillet was next with thyme fondant potatoes, vegetables and veal jus with sage. There were two desserts plus petit fours and I really wanted to try those. Although I had starved myself all day  - well almost, bar a pastizz or two.  In spite of this I knew I could not manage the veal,  the two desserts and petit fours as well. So, rather reluctantly, I had a bit of a break and skipped the veal dish. It looked like a knock-out example of veal fillet and I watched the others relish it. For one moment I regretted turning it back but once dessert arrived I knew I would only have coped with a third of it - it was a generous portion.

We guzzled wine like milk. Chablis from Jean Marc Brocard for the first four courses. Then a 'Bourgogne' Pinot Noir from the house of Louis Jadot with the lamb.

Ah dessert! Chocolate Panna Cotta from heaven served with 'Nivole' Moscato D'Asti from Michele Chiarlo - an Italian wine after the two French ones. It was the ideal tipple with the Panna Cotta and a second dessert: A Medley of Strawberries with a strawberry soufflé, mousse, ice-cream and coulis served in a clutch of' tumblers. Yes, it is strawberry time after all. The contents of each tumbler were superbly rendered both in terms of taste and texture.

This kitchen is indeed a gastronomic wonderland.

So what was behind this idea of serving a very posh meal in the kitchen? Well, it is for private groups of connoisseurs and an occasion to offer guests a real insight into the art of innovative Mediterranean cuisine. The Chef's Table menu includes six to nine courses and can be adjusted to suit all tastes and it is open for dinner for a minimum of ten and a maximum of twelve people. The wines come from the Hilton's new Bottega Wine Cellar.

There was no meaningless gimmickry in this meal; no aristocratic titles on the menu which then turn out to be just stomach-lining fodder. The understated menu sums it all up:  a meal for connoisseurs or those who aspire to be one. I still aspire to be one but at the same time go back to size 16.

The excellent guitarist played appropriate tunes which did not drown the conversation and it was indeed background music. All in all, not forgetting the service which was obliging without being oppressive. It was impressive. An evening with plenty of oomph. I promised myself less chocolate and carbs for the following week. Well, that lasted for two days and I am now back to my bad habits.