My pilgrimage to the Orthodox theocracy of Mount Athos (the Holy Mountain) began with a deep yearning for the unknown. It was a place I had never set foot on but had always longed to experience in my dreams. I had heard stories of how life on Athos was changing, and I felt a strong urge to uncover its true essence before it faded away.

Mount Athos, the Autonomous Monastic State of the Holy Mountain, which has steadfastly preserved its Orthodox identity, is a peninsula in northern Greece home to twenty monasteries and other sacred sites.

The journey is steeped in history, with legends of the Virgin Mary and early monastic settlements, especially during the 8th and 9th-century iconoclastic struggles over religious images.

Monasteries on Athos are allowed to thrive as self-sufficient communities devoted to communal living.

I marvelled at the impressive architecture, with its defensive structures and functional design, especially the katholikòn, the central church in a monastery often dedicated to a saint, which serves as the spiritual heart of the complex where monks gather for prayer, worship, and liturgies.

The spirituality and community life within these monasteries were palpable, filled with shared meals, work and prayers that created a profound sense of connection. Orthodox monks and Christian pilgrims gather early in the morning for the divine service. This is followed by a grand procession lasting four to five hours, and vespers in the afternoon.

During this extraordinary trip, as a Catholic, I engaged deeply with the Orthodox monks, who look at us Catholics as heretics who have lost their path and for whom they pray to return to tradition.

I found their commitment to isolation from the outside world intriguing and challenging.

As I wandered through various monasteries, I could not help but reflect on the enduring nature of monastic life amid modern challenges.

This journey became a profound personal exploration of faith and tradition, inspired by the unique cultural and natural landscape of this one-of-a-kind place.

No woman's land

As I left the coastal village and small port of Ouranoupoli, the gateway to Mount Athos, I was struck by the sight of a large ferry, packed with enthusiastic Orthodox monks and pilgrims, heading to the port of Dafni on Mount Athos. This place had once been accessible only by small boats. It was a clear sign of modernity creeping into this secluded, sacred realm, which continues to exclude not only women but also, according to tradition, female animals.

After nearly two hours of walking, I finally arrived at the monastery of Iviron, which overlooks a forest of pine, oak, and myrtle, as well as the stunning coastline. The landscape is dotted with chestnut, beech, olive, cypress, carob, fig and laurel trees, along with wild berry bushes.

Fr Dimitris welcomed us with homemade Tsipouro, a strong Greek spirit similar to Italian grappa, made from distilled grape pomace, and loukoum, a sweet, chewy confection akin to Turkish delight. He then led us to our rooms, each offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Iviron Monastery holds a true treasure in its library, which is home to around 2,000 manuscripts of great importance to scholars and researchers.

The next morning, I set off for Kariès, the capital of the small state that, although part of Greece, is governed by monks. There, I visited the nearby Russian skete of St. Andrew, which combines historical richness with the challenges of contemporary life. A skete is a settlement of monks living in small cottages next to a church, all dependent on a monastery. At St Andrew's, the main church, built in 1030, is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin. When I visited, preparations for the upcoming feast were in full swing.

Meanwhile, at the Great Lavra, founded in AD 363, I was struck by the spirituality, conveyed through the soft candlelight, which cast a glimmer that illuminated golden icons in a dark church, also marked by the monks' chants.

After several days at Athos, I embarked on a challenging trek to the skete of St Anna. Despite my physical exhaustion, the breathtaking landscape, the pure fresh air, and a few meaningful encounters with fellow pilgrims provided spiritual nourishment and a boost of energy.

Upon reaching St Anna, I was enveloped in the tranquillity of monastic life, sharing simple meals made with home grown grains and vegetables garnished with olive oil and wine produced from locally grown olives and grapes.

The following day, I continued to Dionissiù and Grigorìu, each monastery rich with history and art. At Simonos Petra, I was captivated by its unique architecture, the friendliness of the monks.

The hermitages at Karoulia are home to fewer than ten hermits who live in small huts and caves on the vertical faces of the towering rocks that rise from the rough sea, preserving their sense of oneness with God.

My final stop at the Russian monastery of St Panteleimon, visited by Russian President Vladimir Putin in 2023, revealed a curious blend of tradition and commercialism since the monastery is popular with Russian believers who donate generously towards its upkeep.

Putin was not the only head of state to visit Athos. In 2024, Britain's King Charles, the supreme governor of the Church of England, sought spiritual guidance from Archimandrite Ephraim, the abbot at Vatopedi Monastery, during his battle with cancer.

King Charles' father, Prince Philip of Greece, was baptised in the Orthodox Church but later converted to Anglicanism before marrying Princess Elizabeth, who would become Queen.

A journey of reflection and personal transformation

As my pilgrimage ended, I found myself reflecting on the stark contrast between the serene monastic life nestled in nature that I had experienced and the bustling modern world outside where we race against time.

This journey made me question my faith; it was a personal discovery that I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

My conclusion is that a visit to the all-male Athos enclave can be truly life changing, whether one is religious or not.

Would I do it again?

In a heartbeat!