The Malta Independent 27 July 2026, Monday
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The Café as Sanctuary… and a new Sunday in Scotland Café in Balluta

Marie Benoît Sunday, 23 November 2025, 09:10 Last update: about 9 months ago

I am a dedicated follower not of fashion but of cafés. I simply love them, and upon arriving in a city, town, or village I soon start searching for a café with ambience and decent food and drink. I absolutely dislike chain cafés and refuse to sit in them both here and abroad. They are fast destroying small individual cafés of character, just as supermarkets have killed the local grocer. They call it progress.

From the much‑lamented Borg Bonaci café of long ago, in Strada Santa Lucia in Valletta, to the gilded mirrors of Lisbon's A Brasileira; to the Belle Époque splendour of Porto's Majestic and the literary hum of Paris's La Flore, Europe's cafés have long been sanctuaries of conversation, creativity, and community. I don't want to forget Brussels, which has its own atmospheric cafés. I remember my young one taking me to a café where old vinyl records of Piaf, Brel, and Georges Moustaki delighted me... some were very old and sounded just like mine at home, slightly scratched. From Lisbon to Porto, from Paris to Brussels, each café carries its own soul, and each memory its own echo.

I recall Palermo's Caffè Mazzara, where Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa once lingered. It is in Via Ruggero Settimo, one of Palermo's central and elegant boulevards. Established in the early 20th century, it became a hub for intellectuals, writers, and aristocrats. Lampedusa frequented it regularly, often sitting quietly with his book and notes. The café became part of his daily rhythm, a discreet refuge where he worked on Il Gattopardo.  I remember us being taken there by our darling friend Lianna, now no more than a loving memory. Giuseppe had long gone, yet his novel remains.

But here I want to write about a modern café in St Julian's. I was not aware of its existence until I was invited by its creator, a friend of my daughters and their friends. He had already created another two cafés - one in Valletta, in lower Strada Santa Lucia, the other at the Ferries, and a third at the airport which is more than a café.  I have been to all, but especially the one at the Ferries since it is nearer home.

The creator of these and much more is a gentleman about town, Amer Wahoud. Born in Lebanon, he is very much comme il faut, a perfectionist whose courtesy never slips. Cosmopolitan, with a brilliantly innovative mind and lashings of charm.

Why has he called his cafés Sunday in Scotland? This has intrigued so many.

The idea came when Amer was walking with a friend - a hotelier - in the Scottish countryside. It occurred to them how comforting it would be to find somewhere attractive serving good coffee or tea and something delicious. And thereby hangs the tale of Sunday in Scotland: one instance when fantasy was turned into reality.

So, into this tradition of European cafés steps Sunday in Scotland, with a new arrival in St Julian's. Small in size but generous in spirit, it offers unique food, excellent coffee, and attractive décor, inviting locals and wanderers alike to discover their own corner of café culture on the Maltese shore.

Why did Amer choose to settle in Malta? "Because we share a common history, especially when it comes to the Phoenicians. We are merchants. The Maltese islands, like Lebanon, fell into the sphere of influence of the Phoenicians, who were great traders. I like Malta because geographically it suits my lifestyle and I can travel easily from here. I like the weather, and yes, it takes me back to my childhood in Lebanon," he explains, not without nostalgia.

We sit in the café and catch up with each other's news after having given our order. It took me some time to decide, as there is an embarras de choix. I am greedy, and the choice is wide - far beyond the usual pastizzi, wraps, and toasted sandwiches, more often than not with cold inferior ham.

Amer has honed a mastery of croissanterie, blending artistry with a scientific understanding of the delicate processes that give rise to the perfect croissant. I have eaten some delicious croissants at the Sunday in Scotland cafés - savoury ones as well - and they remain memorable. He suggested a pistachio croissant and a sourdough sandwich filled with wonderful things.

We talked comfortably, as there was no loud music in the background. I have often had to ask for the music to be lowered in both cafés and restaurants, and when this is ignored I have simply walked out. Most of us go to these places to talk. Why can't we have soft piano music - Chopin, Liszt and the like? When will those who run these places realise that loud music spoils it all?

Amer now has his own bakery, too as well as his own chocolate factory. But that is another story. You simply must taste these chocolates which are also available at the cafés.  

Amer's lifestyle philosophy is a meticulous commitment to quality in everything he does. You can see this in the café in St Julian's, as you can in his other cafés.

This new café is a continuation of Europe's café tradition - a place where memory, conversation, and artistry meet on Maltese shores.

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