An invitation to a special gourmet dinner at the Seafood Market Grill in Gzira filled me with anticipation. I had been there before, twice, when it first opened, invited by members of my family, and I had loved the experience but though delicious, those were not gourmet dinners.  This time Adam was running a special gourmet dinner in collaboration with the Ambassade de France a Malte - Goût de France. "Each course will be presented simultaneously paired with a selection of fine French wines chosen by our French Sommelier Fabien Etienne." We were told to be on time, 7 o'clock sharp. Phew I made it!

The French sommelier, Fabien Etienne, was on our table of five and he briefly said a few words about each bottle of French wine, with the grace of a seasoned performer. Like the guardian of ancient secrets, he poured out the wines that whispered of sun-drenched vineyards.   Adam, patron chef par excellence who also owns a popular fish shop in Mosta, was quietly orchestrating the evening meal in the kitchen while waiters, in red berets, at the same time made sure that every plate presented to patrons was prepared with flair.

Adam introduced us to his wife Romina and told us briefly how they met and gave much praise to Charlene Abela Le Gall, whom I have known for a number of years and who started Marketing and Consultancy Services, her own very successful business.

Since I had last visited the Seafood Market several changes had been made. The restaurant's ambiance has been transformed into an intimate cocoon. promising a culinary journey that would tantalize the senses and elevate the soul. There were candles, at least one candelabra and a kind of conservatory outside had been built to accommodate more patrons. One other addition, for the night only, I hope, was a young lady, acting as DJ. From time to time we asked her to lower the volume. They call it music. Boom, Boom, Boom! We could have so easily done without it. It added absolutely nothing to the evening. If music we must have let it be background music please.

This was not just a meal; it was a gourmet dinner where every dish was a masterpiece, every bite a revelation, and every moment a cherished memory in the making.

Waiters served each dish with grace and no fuss. Romina herself in a simple red dress and matching red beret was lending a helping hand.

The canapés were followed by oysters mignonette served with a Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley. The coquille Saint-Jacques, known to be the most popular shellfish in France is also known as the pilgrim shell, something to do with the shrine of Santiago de Compostella. That evening they were served with an Armagnac cream. (Talleyrand, the clergyman and statesman, whom we learned about in our history lessons, claimed that England had three sauces and 360 religions, while France had three religions and three hundred and sixty sauces. I fear neither country has much religion left these days of secularism)

Next we were served a Salade Niçoise with pan seared tuna, and quails eggs. Gourmet dishes rely not only on expert cooking techniques but beautiful presentation. Adam and his brigade de cuisine, achieved both.
My very favourite dishes followed. Oeuf a la coque, with bulots and fresh cèpes, the large mushrooms which are considered a delicacy.

The Tartare de langoustine accompanied by fois gras seemed a sacrilege to consume. Perhaps this was my favourite dish after all. This dish was paired by Côte des Roses from the Languedoc district.  Of a delicate pink and subtle flavour it went so well with the langoustine and fois gras, an unexpected combination and absolutely subtle.  In this meal Adam had banished the ordinary and for a few glorious hours treated his patrons with the unusual and delicious.

The next dish was my least favourite and that's because I have never liked cuttlefish with its long tentacles. I don't like the look of it when alive at all or the taste of it when dead.  

This was followed by Gateau de sèches et Gruyère served with Bouchot mussels. The bouchot method involves growing mussels on wooden poles (bouchots) that are planted in the sea. These  mussels are known for their quality and distinctive flavour, which is attributed to the unique farming method that allows them to grow in a clean environment, protected from predators and benefiting from the rich nutrients found in the tidal waters. We were really spoilt that evening. Everything, or almost everything was imported from France.

The Charcoal grilled cod served with Bearnaise sauce (you know, the one with tons of butter and tarragon etc.) and caviar ended this symphony of fine food. There was only dessert left after that. There was a lull as it would take a short while to assemble. We were told by Fabien and Charlene (the French girl responsible for marketing, who is married to a Maltese, that Café Gourmand, the name of the dessert, was launched a dozen years ago in Paris. It arrived: a selection of pastries and desserts, crème brûlée and a small glass of cream. It gave us the opportunity to eat several different desserts in one go, without feeling too guilty. So good.

The menu, under desserts, said "French inspired creation" so there was an element of surprise as well, as we did not know what to expect. Adam's surprise was most welcome and we all went home smiling.

Irecognised many patrons that evening. I will mention Dr Franco Debono who  was there "with my partner of 25 years", Vanessa. I asked him if he was planning anything naughty. He answered something like: "We shall see." Well he has now announced his candidature for MEP. Not naughty enough Dr Debono. As an enfant terrible I expect more from you.

Adam and his brigade, true maestros of their craft, did not just feed us; they have provided an experience that transcends the mere act of dining. We, are reminded that at its pinnacle, cooking is not just about sustenance, but about creating moments of pure gastronomic joy.

I have learnt that the restaurant Rosami, at the Villa in St Julians has been awarded a Michelin star. This is the second Michelin star in the portfolio of the Zammit Tabonas. Le Mondion at the Xara Palace, too, had been awarded a Michelin star. Congratulations. I am truly delighted. I told you so.
Adam will be awarded one sooner or later. I have little doubt. What a meal that was. So many excellent wines too. I slept like a baby that night. Thank you very much all those concerned.

 

[email protected]

Photos: Charlene Abela Le Gall