Malta was once described as the land of ‘bells, smells and steps’ by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. He could have added churches or chapels in the context because Malta probably has the highest concentration of religious buildings. In the past few years, a lot of effort has been made to restore these chapels to their former glory. Gerald Fenech reports.
Where it all started….
Michael Spiteri, better known as “Kilin”, was definitely one of the first individuals to actively encourage the preservation and conservation of wayside chapels.
His book, A Hundred Wayside Chapels of Malta is the standard text for anyone interested in the subject.
I went to meet him at the government home for the Elderly in Msida to talk about how his interest in the subject began in the 60’s when he published his first articles and sketches for Lehen is-Sewwa.
“I started to paint chapels when I went for walks or a drive in the countryside. However, on one occasion, I sent a sketch of the Madonna ta’ Loreto chapel in Gudja to the editor of Lehen is-Sewwa.
“The editor’s response was immediate and he encouraged me to gather more information on other chapels. He then started publishing the articles and sketches. Fr Salvino Bartoli Galea, the editor at the time, urged me to continue and the project covered over a hundred chapels and small churches,” “Kilin” explained.
Another person who was instrumental in the conservation of these chapels was Luret Cutajar. He was one of the first to point out that the chapel of St John the Evangelist at Hal Millieri in Zurrieq was nearly in ruins (it was eventually restored by Din l-Art Helwa).
“Luret was ready to pay for the upkeep of the chapel but nobody took any notice of his offer. After I drew the chapel and the sketch was published, Din l-Art Helwa and the late Anthony Luttrel took an interest in the place. Eventually, the magnificent fresco was discovered and restored. As an aside, my drawings and writings on chapels was the first step that helped me to establish myself as a writer – novels, poems and books followed. So the “Divine” guided me on the right path through his places of worship,” he said.
Kilin believes that the revival in restoration practices, especially with regard to chapels, is hugely beneficial for the preservation of our cultural heritage.
“Although a long time has passed since I drew the chapels and wrote about them, you can say that some were more fortunate than others. One chapel that was saved is the chapel of St Peter the Hermit in Mosta. Unfortunately, the beautiful cross in front of the St John chapel in Hal Millieri was destroyed by hunters, who used it for target practice,” “Kilin” added.
Hailing from Msida, “Kilin” has a particular interest in the old chapel near the Ghajn tal-Hasselin and the chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows in Pieta.
“The chapel dedicated to the Immaculate Conception was originally the old parish church before St Joseph Church was built in the early 20th century. It is still very much in use but unfortunately it has been surrounded by buildings,” he said.
His great-great grandfather, Salvatore Dimech, also sculpted the statue that lies outside the chapel of St Gregory in Zejtun.
Is enough being done to preserve this important part of our historical and cultural heritage?
“There is much more awareness now than in the past. Restoration work was limited. These chapels which dot our countryside are a testament to the strong faith of our forefathers,” “Kilin” said.