The Malta Independent 30 July 2026, Thursday
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Petrodollars and poetry: My time in Abu Dhabi

Marie Benoît Sunday, 3 August 2025, 08:25 Last update: about 13 months ago

A relative invited me to Abu Dhabi, where they had been living two years ago. I imagined it would be vulgar, like Dubai. Not that I've ever been to Dubai, but my perception is that it's all flash - the kind of ambience I increasingly dislike as I get older. I was assured Abu Dhabi is very much a family-oriented place. So, I plucked up courage, booked a return ticket with Emirates, and landed in Dubai, as Emirates does not fly to Abu Dhabi from Malta. I was picked up and driven to Abu Dhabi. It took just over an hour.

First Impressions: Immaculate cleanliness, excellent roads, neat houses, and far more greenery and flowers than we have here during summer. Huge new cars glide by, driven courteously.

I soon discovered the shopping malls -some more beautiful than others - all spotless with many cleaners on duty. I have never seen cleaner toilets. What a joy to use. It's clear the petro dollars are well utilised.

My relatives spoiled me, driving me to several beautiful places. We packed in quite a few cultural highlights, most notably the Louvre Abu Dhabi - truly one of the crown jewels. Not just an architectural marvel by Jean Nouvel, but a cultural bridge between East and West. The museum's floating dome and globally curated collection have made it the most visited museum in the Arab world. They even offer kayaking around it and host events such as teen art camps and space-themed summer programmes.

We were driven there by a friend in her Tesla - a milestone experience for me. The car performed all sorts of tasks: opening and shutting windows and boot, playing music, all without the driver lifting a finger. Abu Dhabi has embraced electric mobility, with Tesla showrooms, service centres, and destination chargers dotted around the city.

We were lucky to catch an exceptional exhibition: Impressionism: Pathways to Modernity. So beautiful. Manet, Degas, Monet, Renoir, and Cézanne - they revolutionised 19th-century art by capturing fleeting moments, light, and modern life with bold brushwork and colour. No crowds. Viewed in great comfort, unlike the Louvre in Paris, where staff are now going on strike, overwhelmed by the tourist influx.

Another excellent exhibition was Kings and Queens of Africa: Forms and Figures of Power. It showcased over 350 artworks from across the continent - royal attire, ceremonial objects, and sculptures. The exhibition explored how African rulers expressed power and identity through art - the first of its kind in the region. I've visited several museums across Africa in my lifetime, but none matched the grandeur of this show.

We visited the Louvre three times. On one occasion, we headed up to the Art Lounge - the rooftop bar - and enjoyed drinks with blankets and heaters. A gem with stunning views of Abu Dhabi's skyline. Perfect for unwinding after exploring the galleries. They offer light bites, cocktails, and cozy touches like heaters during cooler evenings and in February, evenings were definitely cool.

The Louvre Abu Dhabi is funded by the Government of Abu Dhabi, specifically the Department of Culture and Tourism. A landmark intergovernmental agreement was signed in 2007 between France and the U.A.E. Abu Dhabi paid €974 million over 30 years for use of the Louvre name until 2037; loans of artworks for 10 years; and four exhibitions per year for 15 years. Agence France-Muséums coordinates loans and curatorial expertise from 16 major French institutions, including Musée d'Orsay, Centre Pompidou, and Musée du quai Branly. I love the Emirati men, young and old, in their spotless Emirati kanduras. They keep Abu Dhabi's many laundries very busy.

One evening at the Louvre, while we were finding our way to the galleries, two young men were seated, enjoying coffee and the view. One of us asked for directions to the lift. It turned out they were brothers. One of them offered to show us the way, but not before kindly offering us coffee and a sweet. We declined the coffee but accepted a special Emirati sweet which he went to order from a nearby kiosk within the Louvre. He even gave me his seat.

What I truly appreciate is the respect Emiratis show towards the elderly. Grey hair and a walking stick earn you warm smiles and exceptional kindness. I loved it. Even older men and women smile at me. We acknowledge each other. We are in the same waters...

These young men spoke excellent English and were amazed that someone of my age had flown alone. They said their mother would never dare do the same.

The Guggenheim Abu Dhabi is nearly ready. Designed by Frank Gehry and financed by DCT Abu Dhabi, it has a one billion dollar construction contract awarded to a joint venture of BESIX and Trojan General Contracting. It will be the largest Guggenheim in the world.

These projects are part of Abu Dhabi's broader strategy to diversify its economy beyond oil, positioning itself as a global cultural destination. It's a fascinating blend of soft power, cultural diplomacy, and visionary urban planning.

I loved every minute of my stay. I'll tell you a little more about it next week. (Please don't roll your eyes!)

The Emiratis have certainly used their petro dollars well.

If you get a chance to go, grab it with both hands and leave. You will love it too.

 


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