Rome has become my second home, a place where history and everyday life blend so naturally that I slip back into its rhythm the moment I arrive. I cross the bridges over the Tiber, wander through sunlit piazzas and stop for coffee in quiet neighbourhood bars. One ritual I never miss is my daily gelato.

A Roman ritual

In Rome, gelato is far more than a dessert. Like coffee, pasta and pizza, it is woven into everyday life. Whether enjoyed on a hot afternoon or after an evening stroll, it is part of the city's rhythm. It cools me under the summer sun, follows me through cobbled streets and gently brings the day to a close.

Over the years I have sampled countless flavours, yet I always return to the Roman classics: crema romana, ricotta e visciole, fiordilatte and zabaione. There is only one place in Rome where I instinctively go for them. Among the city's countless gelaterie, it is Maddalena's that keeps drawing me back - not only for its exceptional, all-natural, sugar-free gelato, but also for the warmth of the woman behind the counter.

Maddalena

I first discovered her gelateria in Testaccio, a true Roman neighbourhood away from the tourist crowds. There are no bright signs or elaborate displays, only Maddalena behind the counter. Now 90, she greets everyone with warmth, as though they were already regular customers. When I once mentioned that I might write about her, she smiled and laughed, a little shy but quietly pleased.

Her gelato - a craft preserved

Maddalena's is more than an ordinary gelateria. It is a true artisan laboratory where every batch is cooked and churned fresh each day. As someone who often looks for lighter, healthier options, discovering her shop felt like finding a hidden treasure.

Although best known for her sugar-free gelato, Maddalena also prepares vegan varieties, fruit cremolati, traditional granitas and seasonal flavours, all made with natural ingredients. I often choose the fruit flavours or whatever she has made that day, yet I always find myself returning to the Roman classics. Fiordilatte is beautifully simply made with fresh milk and cream. Crema is a traditional custard gelato, silky and rich with egg yolk and vanilla. Zabaione made with Marsala wine is light, fragrant and deeply satisfying. Ricotta e visciole is a Roman flavour inspired by the city's Jewish baking tradition combining creamy sheep's milk ricotta with tart sour cherries. When I cannot decide Maddalena chooses for me and she is always right.

Gelato is not the only temptation. Maddalena also prepares fresh crêpes and one of her most popular treats: a cone dipped in warm chocolate before being filled with gelato. Even the whipped cream is made fresh each day.

Everyday life

Part of the reason I keep returning is Maddalena herself. She spends the winter in Kenya, but for the rest of the year she can be found in her shop on Via Giovan Battista Bodoni, welcoming customers from morning until late at night. Watching her at work, it is easy to forget she is 90. She shows that joy does not fade; it deepens.

Her gelateria feels like a neighbourhood meeting place. Children rush to the counter, neighbours stop to chat, and visitors return time after time. Even when I am simply passing through, I feel part of it.

My Rome

For me, Maddalena's gelateria is Rome. Many of my days in the city end at her counter, cone in hand, watching Roman life carry on around me.

I always leave Maddalena's with more than a cone of gelato. I leave carrying a memory that lingers long after the last scoop has gone. Her gelato, prepared with extraordinary care and offered with genuine warmth, reminds me that the true soul of a city is often found not in its grand monuments, but in the people who quietly give it heart.