Reggio Calabria, the largest town in the region of Calabria, Italy’s boot tip, is probably most associated with the world-famous Bronzi di Riace – two bronze statues that are fine examples of the highest period of Greek art, dating back to the 5th century BC. However, while these statues are by far among the most unique attractions it has to offer, Reggio also enjoys other attributes, including a year-round mild climate that has turned it into a popular seaside resort.
The capital of Calabria before Catanzaro took over in 1971, it still holds the title of the region’s main commercial centre, with a population of over 180,000, and occupies a prime position on the eastern coast of the Straits of Messina, where it opens into the Ionian Sea. In fact, Reggio Calabria boasts a superb seafront and its promenade, facing Messina in Sicily, lives up to its description by Gabriele d’Annunzio as “the most beautiful kilometre in Italy”.
Boasting a long and interesting history that dates back to the second half of the 8th century BC, Reggio was one of the first ancient Greek settlements on the Italian mainland. Although not much of its historical past has survived, due primarily to the fact that it was completely destroyed by earthquakes (the most devastating in 1783 and 1908), it still has a number of attractions, to offer.
The Museo Nazionale at the end of Corso Garibaldi is a must-see, as it exhibits a fabulous collection of artefacts and the most important collection of archaeological finds in Calabria. Most of these items date from the Hellenic period, with examples from every major Greek site in the region, including the famous carved tablets from the sanctuary of Persephone at Locri.
But the most renowned exhibits in the museum are the Bronzi di Riace, which were found in the Ionian Sea near the village of Riace in 1972 and are attributed to Phidias, or followers of his school. They are especially prized because there are so few finds from the 5th century BC that are in such a good state. Detailed explanations of their recovery and restoration surround these exhibits in the museum, while close by is another important Greek sculpture, known as the Head of the Philosopher. The museum also displays examples of Byzantine and Renaissance art, including works by Antonello da Messina.
Other important landmarks in the city include its handsome Duomo, or cathedral, rebuilt after the earthquake of 1908, while the remains of the Castello Aragonese on Piazza Castello offer a pleasant backdrop to summer festivities. Remnants of walls built by early Greek conquerors are still visible from the sea, as well as near the ruins of the Roman baths along Via Vittorio Emanuele. The city centre may not be medieval (it is 19th and 20th century) like in most other Italian towns, but it is still charming. Home to a number of shops, restaurants and cafés, Corso Garibaldi, the main street, is where to go for a spot of retail therapy and a break from the cultural scene. Meanwhile, the passeggiata down the corso, which stretches two kilometres across the town centre, is one of the most animated in Calabria. A stroll along the lungomare, or seaside esplanade, is one of the highlights of a visit to Reggio. The long promenade along the sea’s edge, with botanical gardens running parallel to some stretches, makes a pleasant walk, affording breathtaking views of the Sicilian coastline and Mount Etna. Indeed, Sicily is practically a stone’s throw away and can be reached via a 20-minute ferry ride to Messina. A popular seaside resort, due to its mild, Mediterranean climate and long, sandy beaches, Reggio’s colourful lidos grace the edges of the Tyrrhenian Sea (to the north) and the Ionian Sea (to the south and east).
It is also worth taking the time to sample what the region has to offer – intact natural landscapes featuring precipitous coasts, picturesque bays with stunning sandy beaches, pretty coastal towns, a varied hinterland and the stone legacies of a millennium-old history of civilisation. Not yet the victim of mass tourism, the region has the best of both worlds – mountains and sea, as well as forests and lonely landscapes that are ideal for walking tours.
It’s a true case of la dolce vita – an opportunity to sample the Italian way of life in its raw and pristine form.
The theatres of Reggio Calbria
The reopening of the Francesco Cilea Theatre is without doubt one of the historic events that mark the cultural rebirth of Reggio Calbria and the entire province.
The presence of large spaces dedicated to oriental goddesses at Reggio and Locri, such as Semiramis, Queen of Babylon and Isis the Egyptian Goddess, reaffirm Reggio as the cradle of antique Greek tradition.
Reggio is also famous as an ancient musical city, with musicians such as Aristone da Reggio and Eunomo from Locri, it is the native land of Stesicoro, the reformer of choral lyrics, and last but not least Ibico who sang so much of “young beauty”.
Reggio Calabria, today is re-discovering its past through which it can launch its economic development and its art that renders it complete. Arte e Mestieri is the basis on which Reggio has now invested for future progress.
The Francesco Cilea Theatre is a splendid structure in 19th century style, built in the shape of a horse shoe with three levels of theatre boxes and a gallery constructed with safety, acoustics and stage formation characteristics, has its roots in the Real Teatro Borbonico, designed and planned in the times of Gioacchino Murat and inaugurated on 30 May 1818 by Zannoni.
In the past, performances were held during the summer months with leading theatre companies and orchestras alternating performances. Damaged by the earthquake of 1908, it was only in 1913, on the initiative of minister Giuseppe De Nava, that the construction of the Teatro Garibaldi started.
In 1931, thanks to mayor Giuseppe Valentino, known as the “mayor of the post-earthquake re-construction”, the now Teatro Comunale was finally inaugurated and named after the Reggio musician Francesco Cilea.
From poetry, to literature, to dance, every year the Cilea is full to capacity with an interesting rich programme adapted to quench the thirst of the Reggio audience.
The long awaited grand re-opening of the Cilea in 2002 with a concert by Mro Rostropovitch, transmitted via satellite throughout Europe, was more than a memorable occasion.
An interesting preview of this year’s calendar relates to the agreement signed last April between the artistic directors of the three leading Calabrian theatres, the Rendano of Cosenza, the Politeama di Catanzaro and Francesco Cilea – an agreement which attempts to create a stronger collaboration to improve the overall level of the theatres individually and collectively.
Apart from the Cilea, one cannot forget another important expression of the Reggio theatre that for 20 years has seen numerous successes. Catonateatro, is in fact a summer festival popular not only with the Reggio public but also further afield. Teatro a confronto, the title given by Polis Cultura for the 20th season of Catonateatro, this year has a mix of classic and modern theatre to satisfy an even more demanding public with shows of different types from the various regions.
From a simple form of entertainment,Catonateatro, has become a theatre in all senses, where various artists and theatre companies from all over the world meet to delight art, music and poetry aficionados.
From the Taming of the Shrew by William Shakespeare, to the Ecuba by Euripides, from Don Giovanni di Molière to Joaquìn Cortès’ ballet Mi Soledad, the festival of Catonateatro is now established as one of the cultural reference points in the south of Italy.
Air Malta operates a flight Mondays to Fridays to
Reggio Calabria. Since the flights to Reggio depart
in the morning and return to Malta in the evening it is
possible to travel on a day return trip. Clients are reminded that the Malta departure tax does not apply to day trips.