Malta and Gozo today celebrate the feast of St Peter and St Paul more commonly known as l-Imnarja, a traditional feast since the time of the Knights of St John which is still marked by agricultural fairs, livestock competitions, ghana (folk music), traditional fenkata (rabbit recipes) and local wine drinking until the early hours of the morning in Buskett.
The word Mnarja is derived from ‘Luminarja’ meaning lights, and refers to bonfires around the island. Small torches also used to be lit near the Cathedral and Mdina bastions. The feast was so popular in olden times that a man had to promise his wife-to-be and her parents on the eve of marriage that he would take his bride to Buskett for the next Imnarja.
Until the 17th century, the feast was celebrated by the locals with a pilgrimage to the crypt which lies underneath the Parish Church of Rabat. A procession would pass through Rabat towards the St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina.
L-Imnarja is linked to harvests and farming as the majority of Maltese during the 16th, 17th and 18th century were farmers, and Rabat was the hub of farming activities. Many Maltese used to flock to Rabat on the eve of the feast, on foot, on horse and mule driven carts. A crowd would gather at Saqqaja, the top of the hill in Rabat, and recite the rosary and other prayers. Later they would join the Bishop and his Cathedral Chapter in the procession towards Mdina. Accompanying the procession one would also find the daqqaqa and the folklore singers wearing priestly robes.
During the British reign, under Governor Sir W. Reid in 1854, the Agricultural Society took over the National Farmers’ exhibition, which gathered prime livestock, top agricultural produce and Maltese honey under a marquee in Buskett Gardens. It was prohibited to feast at Buskett during the night along the rule of the knights. The agricultural show in Buskett brought about great changes. Many Maltese used to go to see the exhibition and spend the day at Buskett, eating rabbit and singing away until the early hours of the morning.
The Agricultural Society changed the date of the show to the 28 of June so that on Mnarja the Governor, first, and later the President of the Republic, could go and present trophies awarded for the best exhibits.
Animal racing used to be held at Saqqaja Hill and going up the incline on the left one can still see the Loggia tal-Palji the balcony where the country leaders used to sit and where Paliji were awarded to winners. The palji (prize-flags) were brightly coloured and the winners would take these to their respective villages.
While the feast is still traditionally celebrated at Buskett and rural villages in Gozo, many opt for a barbeque with family and friends at beaches or simply on house roofs as school children break for summer.
Once again, l-Imnajrja activites draw to an end this evening following horse and animal racing at Saqajja Hill. The feast of St Peter and St Paul is also celebrated in Nadur Gozo.