There is a large building standing quietly in one of the main streets of Mdina, one of the handsome old structures which elicit people to stop and admire. The Carmelite Priory is strictly speaking a religious monastery, but its uniqueness lies in the fact that over the recent years its purpose has widened, allowing it to welcome people to visit it and experience it in more ways than one.
Legend holds that Carmelite friars were present on Malta as early as the 14th century, but what is historically certain is that in 1418 the will of the noblewoman Margerita d'Aragona left instructions that some of her property would be inherited by a religious Order. The choice fell in fact upon the Carmelite Order. What is definite is that in 1658 the convent in the Lunzjata area of Rabat was completely dismantled to be re-built in Mdina wherein all friars re-located. Over the years two storeys were added and today the 17th Century Baroque building stands restored and remains fully functional. In a bid to discover more about its long history which stretches further back in time than its own existence, and its present day status, I meet up with the Prior, Fr Charlò Camilleri.
Fr Charlò expands more on the Priory's history....“There are numerous historic moments tied to the Priory. For instance, the Maltese revolution against the French was ignited here. The building is constructed to original plans designed by the great Gafa. The church is the only local one built to a design by Blondel, its wooden choir stalls are the first example on the island. The building houses paintings by the great artists Preti, Erardi and Bellanti.... And for the record, it is said Napoleon Bonaparte sat at one of our old tables when visiting Mdina, whilst Vaubois eventually ransacked the church after Bonaparte left Malta. The cloister was used as a ration station during WWII during which time the underground shelter beneath the building was a popular safe haven not only for the monks but also for others from this district.”
At its peak the priory welcomed an approximate maximum number of 30 novices and friars. These numbers dwindled drastically over the years of course, since religious vocations have lost popularity. However, rather than close down, the Priory was recently thrown into a novel experience. Ever since 2006, when Pope Benedict XVI proposed the use of key historic religious sites for the purpose of dialogue with contemporary culture, the building has found a new lease and purpose in life. In fact, following its restoration, the Priory was opened to the public, with the 17th century ground floor open for visitors and the priory's old parlour transformed into a café, whilst of course boosting the presence of a highly inviting inner cloister and Blondel's church standing adjacent to the Priory. However the initiative of making the building readily open to public entry did not have the expected results as the Prior explains, “People were considering it just another sight-seeing venue. Visitors, both foreigners and locals, would walk in, stare around, perhaps stop for a fresh or warm drink at the coffee shop, and then walk back out. It became a museum of sorts, and that had not been our intention at all.”
The open priory on three levels formula had to change tack. Today whilst it remains open to visitors, the priory can only be visited by pre-booking. One of the friars accompanies the visitors around while explaining the spiritual, artistic and historical significance of the place. Then one can check out the following features:
A cultural/artistic and spiritual centre on the ground floor level, open Monday to Saturday. The space open for visitors while being still in use daily by the community, hosts events such as book launches, conferences, public talks and exhibitions fostering dialogue with spirituality. The cafeteria which has recently changed hands, offers a home from home experience, with traditional local dishes and periodically traditional Carmelite recipes thrown in on the menu. The most recent addition to the list of events is a series of noon-time concerts in Church.
The Carmelite Institute on the first floor wherein activities are held by three key institutions namely the Carmelites, the Discalced Carmelites and the Faculty of Theology from the University of Malta. Classes and lectures are held on this floor including an MA in Spirituality, research projects and varied collaborations with other international spirituality institutes. Currently the friars with the help of "the friends of the Priory" are working on the restructuring of the library and archives dating back to the 15th cent.
An actual community space on the second floor which serves as residence for the community of friars from the Maltese Carmelite Province. The community itself is a welcoming community for those wishing to experience Carmelite life.
“The aim of the entire set-up is now transformed towards offering what is at the basis of the Carmelite tradition – a contemplative, mystical spiritual opportunity, which is available to all people of good will. People are encouraged to express themselves on a spiritual level, so apart from sharing in the wider knowledge of spirituality, we also organise Carmelite retreats, even on individual basis. Silent retreats in this corner of Mdina, and in the retreat centre at Lunzjata, in the outskirts of Rabat have enticed people from far-flung countries such as Korea, Germany and Finland to come here and reconcile with themselves in silence.” Every week the community organises Lectio divina sessions in the evening, even for the English speaking locals and foreigners. Besides, people are most welcome to participate in the community's liturgical prayer schedule: the daily Liturgy of Hours and Eucharist celebrated in the Church.
A most extraordinary thing happened over recent months as people interested in spirituality became engrossed with the possibilities offered from this spiritual base. For instance the Titus Brandsma Circle congregates at The Priory regularly to study mystical texts, whilst Diocesan priests, members of the Secular Carmelite Order meet up monthly for a day of recollection and formation. Other groups, like the Secular Carmelites, Lay Carmelite groups and others meet regularly at the Priory and quite a number of people of all walks of life, race, gender, and convictions, from across the nation come for spiritual accompaniment and counsel. The Priory issues also Il Karmelu the Maltese Carmelite Province's quarterly for those attracted to Carmelite life and spirituality and lately we are having contacts with local NGO's to offer our particular contribution in line with the Order's contribution to NGO's on an international level.
Truly, the Priory, creatively kept the longstanding monastic tradition of being a place of welcome and a hub of human and spiritual values. "Most of the spiritual activities go unnoticed, inasmuch as we try our best to form visitors and those attracted to Carmel to the interior life, so lacking in our fragmented and chaotic times. It is from a deep interiority that fraternal communion in human relationships becomes possible. We invite all who come here to capture the spirit of the place, to respect it as they would respect their home, responsibly and with an open mind to the preciousness of our environment. It is becoming a truly fruitful space for all who enter with the proper disposition...”