Peter Dacoutros awarded

The popular programme Purée, on TVM, has kept Peter Dacoutros more than merely busy lately. Housewives love him and my Cetta is a great fan of his. When I showed her his latest and most lavish book of recipes, My Favourites, she thought she had died and found herself in heaven, so close to Peter was she. She blew the cover a bunch of kisses and then we had some coffee while she related the latest episode in the often ‘soap opera’ that is our life. My Favourites was launched at Cose Casa in Balzan by Mrs Kate Gonzi in November 2011 and I recall going to the launch where, if you didn’t want to, you did not stop eating and drinking – Peter never does things by half. He can be larger than life. His home, his parties, his dinners his fantastic crib – all larger than life, all artistic, all created with love of whatever he is doing.  His books have a very personal touch and I like reading about his Greek ancestors and his grandfather’s schooners returning from his native Santorini every three weeks and bringing along authentic ingredients for his wife’s Greek dishes. She was Maltese but learnt how to cook her husband’s native food too.

Peter gave our readers some lovely recipes when I was editing First. He has learnt a great deal from feedback of viewers of his TV programmes, over the years, via emails and telephone conversations.    He has discovered that what they want is inexpensive, wholesome food using ingredients which are easily accessible and moreover, recipes which are time-efficient. Many more women are now working and simply haven’t got hours to spend over a hot stove, stirring three pots simultaneously, while, like Virgina Woolf, stirring the custard at the same time.  However, the Maltese mother is still not ready to abdicate her duties in the kitchen for take aways. She enjoys cooking for her family and Peter’s recipes are practical but also mouthwatering.

I was so very pleased for him and his publishers, Midsea Books, when he emailed to let me know that last month he was awarded the Premju Nazzjonali tal-Ktieb 2012 for My Favourites. A man with an open mind and heart Peter was so very pleased to receive the prize  from the hands of Prime Minister Dr Joseph Muscat at Castille. The event is organised annually by the Kunsill Nazzjonali tal-Ktieb. Peter told me ‘confidentially’ that the Prime Minister told him 'Int tahdem bil-qalb u thobb tferrah lin-nies' and Peter, a man of sentiment appreciated that very much.

I am not at all surprised this lovely and substantial recipe book won this coveted prize. It is lavishly illustrated and has enough recipes in it for two lifetimes. The recipes are clear and concise. Going through it one feels as if Peter is a friend in the kitchen giving you genuine step-by-step instructions for preparing every individual recipe the way he has learnt it and of course tried it. No cook worth his/her salt is going to give a recipe which he/she has not, first of all cooked. I love his comments and tips, and ‘asides’. It makes the book even more useful and also very personal.

Accademia Italiana della Cucina dinner at Dolce Vita

I last went to this restaurant which had such an excellent reputation when the chefs were Maltese some years ago.  I cannot recall their names but the food was very good indeed. Since then Dolce Vita has kept it’s name but is now being run by Sicilians, but not before they had completely redecorated it and went up one floor with Meat & Co. taking over the old Dolce Vita premises.

I was greatly looking forward to having my first meal there. This was going to be a very special meal as those attending are all first class foodies, members of the fairly newly established Accademia Italiana della Cucina in Malta, of which Massimiliana Tomaselli has been appointed local delegate.

Several of those sitting at the long table came from different regions of Italy and Sicily, especially for the occasion. But there were several Maltese too, enjoying this excellent dinner.  The long refractory-like table was exquisitely napped in white linen which, at intervals, was monogrammed with the DV initials of the restaurant. For good luck chestnuts and lentils had been placed in attractive patterns right across the table.

The Italians love their food but they are discerning and place great attention to quality rather than quantity. Many of us still have to learn this lesson.  The wines were very well matched to each dish – there were six courses in all. Since it was a very well balanced menu one did not feel particularly heavy at the end of the meal.

We started with an Assaggio of Focaccine di broccoli, pomodoro and cipolla – small but tasty enough to awaken the tastebuds. Several of the dishes had their origins in Ragusa and were ‘revisited’ by the creative chef, of whom we got a glimpse towards the end of the evening.  

No Sicilian meal can possibly miss out on their famous ‘caponata’. The Antipasto consisted of the classical caponata which was ‘revisited and based on a recipe from Ragusa of the Baronessa di Carini.  It was simple but very tasty this combination of prawn, caponatina and egg cooked with the famous Nerello Mascalese wine.

The dish which followed was my favourite. One single Raviolo cooked with ‘nero di seppia’  mixed with ricotta di bufala. Absolutely delicious and with plenty of oomph.

The lentil soup which followed was rendered more savoury with the addition of fresh anchovies. But the highlight of this dish was the much sough after olive oil from Iblea.

The main course was fish – I was thankful it was not some thick steak cooked ‘rare’ which I cannot eat any longer. The dentici came on a bed of creamed broad beans and fennel.

The dessert was Cassata Infornata and the note on the menu warned us that it is not to be confused with the classical Cassata Siciliana made with almond paste and ricotta and which has been popular here for many years.  It was just enough dessert and a refreshing alternative to too many desserts draped in dark chocolate.

The Italian ambassador Giovanni Umberto De Vito and his wife Siga. Hader Halevi De Vito were guests of honour.   Signa Tomaselli presided over the evening with great panache and sense of humour. There were light speeches, awards, explanations and general bonhomie.

A friend who travels constantly to far-flung countries tried to persuade me that locusts make a lovely dish, nutty-tasting and crisp. Well, I have no urge to try them and was very happy that they appeared nowhere on this menu.

On my left was the irrepressible Italico Rota who told me, more delighted than ever, that at the age of 76 he has been requested to return to run Ta’ Cenc which he did with such distinction for so many years. In a few minutes this gentleman of such vast experience and successful in everything he has undertaken over the years, can sum up the restaurant and tourism industries quickly and with enormous perception. I hope Minister Karmenu Vella, who is so well versed himself in the world of tourism, is also listening to Sig. Rota. I asked his delightful wife Livia what she was going to do incarcerated in Gozo. Half winking she told me: ‘Pickle artichokes I suppose!’ She was joking of course. She is a very active lady and still a journalist at heart and in touch with journalists the world over. Well, we already know that Italico Rota will transform Ta’Cenc and it will be returned to its former glory.