Some years ago I pondered a maiden visit to Palermo. Viewed from the western reaches of Europe, Palermo is a five letter word beginning with “M” and best described as “dodgy: be careful”. To someone from Belfast this was almost a compliment, so I cheerfully set off.
I spent my first night in a peculiar small hotel occupying the top floor of a tall building. The black marble stairway, the elaborate wrought iron and wood panelling was my first exposure to art deco and, despite the slight air of faded glory, was a treat. But it was Friday night in June and the cafés of Via Maqueda were calling. My travelling companion and I ventured forth, and came across two of the mysteries of Palermo.
We stood at the lights to cross the street. The lights went our way and we sallied forward into the breach. There was no breach: the cars made no attempt to stop. We dived for the safety of the footpath, only to be ambushed by a scooter travelling faster than the cars. On the footpath!
When we had regained our composure we examined the driving. The drivers were totally ignoring all traffic lights and signs. Hardly surprising, considering their driving position. The drivers (invariably male) sat at an angle facing the passenger, their right arm punctuating their conversation. The left arm was out the open window, gesticulating in conversation with his friends in the cafés. And there we have the first mystery.
If the left arm is out the window, and the right arm in the passenger’s face; who’s constantly blowing the horn? And more importantly, who’s steering the car? I have actually solved the steering question. I’ve examined the battered and scuffed cars and clearly it’s nobody. Via Maqueda is like a big pinball machine: shoot in and you ping your way off the sides.
Unfortunately I have yet to solve the other mystery. Where do the scooters come from, and where on earth are they going? Since that night I have often driven in Palermo and am constantly amazed that in a total gridlocked traffic jam, 500 scooters can appear in the three foot gap in front of me: and they come from everywhere. Any help solving this poser would be greatly appreciated.
“It’s not that bad,” interrupted Dr Salvatore Schirmo, “there were probably only a hundred.” Salvatore and I were back in Malta and catching up over a pleasant cappuccino. “Ok, in Palermo they are a law unto themselves, but it is such a beautifully historic city. Have you not noticed?”
It was time for me to squirm in embarrassment. I sometimes live near Palermo, and when you live in a town or city, you never look with a visitor’s eye. Salvatore was having none of my lame excuses. “It’s time you had a look. There is a close association between Malta and Palermo, there was even a series of radio programmes here featuring walks through the architectural and cultural beauties of Palermo. You should find out about it.’
“No need,” offered Dr Anna Porcheddu, “the presenter is an old friend, Patricia Salomone. And she is going to present one of her tours for the Magic Box at the Italian Cultural Institute.”
Patricia Salomone is very well known in Malta, currently for her charitable work involving campaigning and fund raising, and is a former Rotary Club President. In the past she has performed on the stage at the Manoel Theatre and written articles for the British Services Magazine, pretending to be a British Serviceman’s wife! In the early nineties she opened fashion outlets, helping to launch the world of fashion in Malta, and produced and presented programmes on Television Malta. She has collaborated with one of Malta’s most prestigious NGOs and recently studied for a BA in Contemporary Mediterranean Studies with Italian, graduating at the mature age of 63! She is also very well known for the production of various radio programmes for which she won nominations and a first prize by the Broadcasting Authority for Cultural/Educational programmes in 1998.
One of these productions was called ‘Palermo mill-Hotel Delle Palme’. It comprised a 14 programme series in which she took the listeners along an imaginary walk to the various historical sites in the city of Palermo. The choice of music helped create the atmosphere, with her words helping to fire the listeners’ imagination.
Having an Italian mother she has a deep understanding of things Italian, so this month at the Magic Box, as a special treat for all, she will reprise her stroll along Palermo’s ancient, Baroque and Art Deco sites. She is an avid raconteur, with a great love of both the storytelling art and the city of Palermo. We are promised a very entertaining and enlightening evening.
Everyone is welcome to the talk with questions encouraged and, of course, we can have an informal chat with Patriciaafterwards over a little wine, and a few special Sicilian treats provided by Sapori Siciliani.
I for one won’t be missing this opportunity. Not only is a well told story a delight, but Sicilian dolci is a personal favourite. I have booked a seat near the back to ensure I get first choice! And hopefully I will finally learn something about Palermo.
In case you still haven’t got your programme for 2014 as yet, it’s on, as always, the second Tuesday of the month at 6.30pm. If you haven’t been there yet, you will be made very welcome by Anna and Salvatore; they are always delighted to meet new friends at the Institute.
So get it in the diary: Tuesday 11 February, 6.30pm, Italian Cultural Institute, St George’s Square, Valletta.
By the way, if you find any finger marks in the Cassata, they’re mine!