Rosamí. What a beautiful name I said to myself when I received an invitation to dine there some weeks ago, a combination of roses and friendship sealed in a word. Rosamí and Oka next door, which is more casual, are now part of the Xara Collection. What immediately comes to mind are The Xara Palace in Mdina, so far the only Relais & Chateaux hotel in Malta and Le Mondion, the one Michelin star restaurant situated within that hotel. There is the Xara Lodge as well. Everything this branch of the Zammit Tabona family do, they do very well. So I was looking forward to an evening at their new restaurant.
I am well acquainted with these premises in St Julian's. Over the years, when the adjacent hotel belonged to the Le Meridien group, I attended several functions and meals both within the hotel and in the restaurants which have now changed hands and been reinvented. I am particularly fond of the terrace with its view of Balluta Bay and the Carmelite Church. So sad that the Barracuda is no more.
As I walked up the staircase with pots of palms on one side and bois de rose and frescos on the other, I knew that the restaurant further up was going to be elegant. On the landing I was warmly greeted by members of staff and led to my table. We were being hosted by Nicola Paris one of the directors. Her brother Justin Zammit Tabona was hosting other media people. It's not as if the Xara Collection have anything left to prove but as I looked around it was evident that much thought had gone into decorating Rosamí. Here was glamour, sophistication and comfort. And that elusive quality: good taste.
One of Xara Collection’s directors Nicola Paris and PR and Marketing Manager Julia Grech Ehrentraut
Rosamí is elegantly housed in the former 19th century summer residence of the late legendary Sur Tonin Cassar Torregiani one of the wealthiest men in Malta in his time and also a great philanthropist. A religious man, during World War II he made a vow that if all the members of his family survived the war, he would give the magnificent collier of black pearls which he had bought from Russian refugees in 1917, to embellish the statue of the Madonna of Mount Carmel housed in the Carmelite church of St Julian's and he did. I read this in a charming book written by his grandson Marquis Nicholas de Piro, Anthony Cassar Torregiani Man of Malta. The Marquis has just published Malta Stories from the Life and Times of Jerome de Piro, his father. It's bound to be another excellent read and a healthy change from the book on that rascal Robert Maxwell which is my main reading at present.
With all this flitting through my mind, tummy rumbling, Halls in my bag, I knew right away that this dinner was going to be a blissful treat which I badly needed having been the victim of some bug for the past four weeks. The coughing alone had left me without strength.
The décor of this new restaurant is a combination of bois de rose and café aux lait walls and curtains, comfortable bois de rose armchairs and some lovely paintings by recognised artists such as Mary de Piro, Peter Quinn, George Large, Kenneth Zammit Tabona and others. The designers have managed to create an intimate dining space. This is Armani rather than Versace Jeans.
There is also a separate dining room for those special occasions and the ideal place to propose to your love as you kneel at her feet and present her with an engagement ring. Or simply have a private dinner party when you don't have to spend most of the time slaving over a hot stove.
The attention to detail throughout the experience is impressive. From the well designed cutlery to the different pieces of china there was a creative mind whereever you looked. Everything from the décor to the food is an inspired combination of tastes and textures.
The team of chefs is led by Cliff Borg who came to greet guests. It must be every chef's dream not to just feed people but to present something that will make them gasp. Cliff loves experimenting with flavour and colours and creates truly extraordinary dishes. We did gasp a few times that evening.
The fine china which made the food even more enticing
The menus at Rosamí are not treading a well worn path. Far from it. There are four distinct menus to choose from: Stem, Petal, Bulb or Leaf. The last is a vegetarian experience. Everything but everything was so beautifully presented from the canapės to the petits fours. Portions were small so that at the end of the meal we went home feeling comfortable but greatly satisfied. Every dish was mouthwateringly appealing. I am not going to bore you with details. You simply have to go and see for yourselves. But the asparagus custard served in a ceramic egg was delicious. The fish with butternut and cultured cream truly mouthwatering. My favourite was the parsley risotto (green) surrounding a generous helping of fois gras. The main course was lamb, pink and juicy, served with blueberries and roasted onions. And ah, the bread and yes even the butter was special and more or less matched the curtains.
Kristina Cassar Dowling, writer and animal lover
This is a place for intimate dining at low decibels and fabulous food. A real show stopper. Dessert was citrus marshmallow, raspberries and basil. I have to admit that I thought the basil was overwhelming but that's me. The Jerusalem artichoke, salted peanut and apple and the good looking petits fours ended the meal with aplomb.
We had started the meal with a special Negroni served from a miniature barrel. The sommelier, Brandon Kriel, was elegant and knowledgeable and kept our glasses happy with some well paired delicious wines.
The good, intelligent company on my table completed the excellent evening.
The elegant staircase but there is a lift too
Malta is not over endowed with fine eating but at the end of the meal I said to myself that it would not be long before Rosamí is awarded a Michelin star. This restaurant, as they say in Michelin, 'vaut le voyage.' The Zammit Tabonas have managed to put a bit of magic in the air with the creation of Rosamí. We need magic more than ever.
[email protected]